원정 개요

ABC 1 hour below most others' camp.

1st summit bid on 20th May from C3 by Staartjes-Koomen, de Bos, Wesker, Dingemans, Nawang Chambi and Kanchen Dawa Sherpa; left C3 at 2:00 am but only Staartjes-Koomen and Nawang reached top where they saw Everest; others turned back at 7800-7900m except De Bos, at 7700-7800m, fearing they were too slow and would summit too late (also tired). Summiters returned to C3 at 4:00 pm.

Next summit bid on 22nd from C3 at 2:00 am were Van der Meulen of Dutch Xixa, de Jong, Terwee, Van Dijk, Van Hout and Sherpas Ang Jangbu and Chewang Rinzen; Van Dijk turned back at 7500m tired and Van Hout to 7900m tired; on top at 10:00 am and in C3 1:15 pm.

Next attempt tired and too slow and down to deposit camp at 6400m to sleep.

29th Smets and Van Berlo without Sherpas up from C4 at 2:15 am, Van Berlo to 7500m (very tired) Smets at top 11:30 am (saw Everest) and down to C3.

30th from C4 Koning, Dingemans without Sherpas at 3:00 am and turned back because of much new snow at 7500m; Dingemans stayed in C4 and Koning to ABC.

31st de Bos, Dingemans, Wesker (Wesker from C3) plus Kanchen Dawa and Ang Zangbu (Nawang Chokleg); on top Dingemans at 10:45 am: Ang Zangbu at 10:15 am, de Bos to 7500m very cold and turned back and Kanchen Dawa with him, Wesker back from 7700m also cold and down to ABC (17 hours from C3 to 7700m to ABC).

1st June Bergevoet & Robert Steenmeijer left C4 at 5:00 am and on top only Bergevoet at 11:30 am while Steenmeijer back from 8050m tired and too slow; both slept in C3; no Sherpas with them.

Sherpa summiters:
Nawang Chumbi, Khumjung, 9/12/66, his 1st 8000er
Chhong Ringe (Chewang Rinsen), 5/3/64, Rolwaling, summited Cho Oyu Oct 1994
Nawang Chokleg (Ang Zangbu), 1958, Thami, summited Cho Oyu May 1996

* A member of Dutch Xixabangma expedition, Hans Van der Meulen, unexpectedly turned up at ABC, "paid us some money," and climbed to top on 22 May with 2 members and Sherpa from this expedition. He arrived at ABC on 17 May, went to C2 on 19th, to C2 on 20th, C2 on 21st and summit on 22nd. His biodata given on page 2 of this expedition's members list.