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BC at Pangpema.

Japanese route followed from about 7200m after using German route and descending 100m by rope to do so. Carried loads to C2 site 11 April but slept there only on 16 April and then down. 21 April up again from BC. This time both members to C1 (Monier was alone above BC before). 22nd Monier to C2 in solo summit bid. 23 April stayed in C2 because bad snowfall. 24th up again up but had to give up and descend with bad frostbite, so back to C2 and 25th to BC. Miss Loscos stayed in C1 21-25 April.

No Sherpas, no fixed rope (or rappell rope). Solo above C1. Monier's plan on 24 April was to rest 2 hours at 7500m in afternoon, resume climb that night rest 3-4 hours at 7900m in sleeping bag, reach summit that night or early morning of 25th and descend to C2 on 25th.