원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse West Face
C4 at South Col.

1st summit bid on 19 May by Laughton, Crosthwaite, Silva and Wheelock and 4 Sherpas got no higher than South Summit in big pile up of climbers because rope not yet fixed beyond South Summit, so all down to South Col.

Laughton, and Silva down to BC 22nd for a night, then back up again, arrived at South Col on 25th; left Col at 9:30 pm and on top (using Hoffman expedition rope) at 7:30 am on 26th with Grylls, Sherpas Pasang Dawa and Pasang Tsering in only ascent of that day from Nepal side; back to Col at 11:30 am and down to C2 on 11th BC on 28th.

On 19th descent Crosthwaite fell and pulled Pasang Dawa with him; was just below balcony: fell 200m and stopped by soft snow on more level terrain and very shaken but not hurt despite tumbling.

Pile up of 19th: people arriving at South Summit from about 9:00 am and all stopped there although attempts were being made by some members and Sherpas to move on but no rope produced to further the route despite fact that it had been promised by Berg and despite Silva's report that there was some rope there enough to get to top of Hillary Step. It was found at top of Step on 20th that sufficient old ropes could be pulled out of snow to forward route to summit. There was inertia amongst people in the pile up and Todd cannot explain why it apparently paralyzed everyone (except Laughton whose oxygen running out). This debacle was very costly to Todd who had to find more supplies and regroup his people and to Singapore team who told Todd it cost them heavily also. Todd's weather forecasting service about 21st May warned that cyclone was approaching and Todd announced he would be closing Icefall if actual arrival of cyclone in Nepal was imminent; would be given 2 days warning - no such warning issued (cyclone turned southeast) and Icefall not closed (report Todd brought oxygen down from C4 not correct).

Sherpas:
Pasang Dawa (Pa Dawa), Pangboche, 22 yrs old, 1st 8000er
Pasang Tshering, Pangboche, 22 years, Cho Oyu 27/9/98