원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse West Face
C4 at South Col.

19 May first summit attempt reached Col after South Summit at 10:00 am (had left Col at 1:00 am) because strong wind which destroyed 10 tents at C2: were Cheshmeh Ghasabani, Naghavi, Najarian, Olanj, Oraz with 4 Sherpas (2 Sherpas left just before South Summit) in jam of so many people at South Summit together; "traffic jam" was factor also although this party passed all others in "jam"; down to South Col for that night.

On 20 May at 2:00 am up again: Cheshmeh Ghasabani, Najarian, Olanj, Oraz and 3 Sherpas and were on top at 9:45 am, at Col at about 2:00 pm and C2 at about 7:00 pm. Now no more Everest summit attempts. Iman Gurung had been on Everest attempt of 19th but not strong enough for 2nd attempt next day.

Lhotse: Aflaki and Alinejad on 5 May went to South Col to observe route from there to Lhotse summit and take pictures but did not sleep at col. Neither they nor any others tried to reach summit.

Sherpas:
Dawa Tenzi: 34, Kharikhola, Everest once before
Chuldin, Khumjung, 30, 1st 8000er
Pemba Rinzi: 21, Kharikhola, 1st 8000er (claims Everest summit in spring '97
with Malayasians film team, but team's agency says none went to top)


BC - Nepal - Mountaineering
First Iranians atop Everest
By Elizabeth Hawley

Kathmandu, May 20 (Reuters) - The first Iranian mountaineers to scale Mt Everest successfully stood at the highest point on earth at 9:45 am. (Nepal time) today, the Nepalese tourism ministry announced today.
The ten-member expedition, led by president of the Islamic Republic of Iran Mountaineering Federation Sadegh Aghajani Kalkharan, sent four Iranians and two Nepalese Sherpas to the 8848 meters-high (29,028 foot) summit of Mt Everest.
The summit party had left their highest camp at 7900 meters (25,900 ft) on the Nepalese (southern) side of Everest at 2:00 am today, according to the ministry, reached the top at 9:45 am and stayed at the top of the world for 20 minutes.
The successful Iranians were, the ministry said:
- Hamid Reza Olany, 28, laboratory technician from Hamedan,
- Mohammad Oraz, 28, University student from Naghadeh,
- Jalal Cheshmeh Ghasabani, 38, technician from Hameda.
The Nepalese who went to the summit with them were Chhuldim Sherpa and Da Tenji Sherpa.
This expedition were the first Iranians ever to attempt to scale Everest. A reconnaissance team from Iran joined a Chinese party in the spring of 1978 to prepare for an assent in the following year from the Tibetan side of Everest, and they reconnoitered the northern route to an altitude of about 7800 meters (25,600 ft). The revolution of 1979 led to the cancellation of the actual assault planned for 1979.
However the first Iranian-born climber to reach Everest's summit was a naturalized American citizen, Hooman Aprin from Jackson, Wyoming followed by today's Iranian citizens and gained the summit on 5 Oct, 1990.