원정 개요

C1 at North Col.

On 28 April tent set up at 7700m for C2 but wind collapsed it and South African Sherpas pushed it off platform to set up their team's camp (items inside later recovered). Summit attempt by Garcia and Debrouwer: up from ABC to C1 17 May, C1 to C2 18th but down to BC on 19th because wind were strong at lower altitudes.

23rd May BC Garcia and Debrouwer to ABC; Debrouwer decided he must go to top quickly because was not sleeping at altitude so on 24th Garcia to C1 with Destramau, 25th Garcia and Destremau to C2 while Debrouwer climbed from ABC to C2 and Garcia alone that afternoon to 8300m and Uzbek tent (with Uzbek permission) and that night at midnight Debrouwer and Destremau, climbing slowly, arrived at C3 also. 26th May Garcia started up at 1:00 am just before American party and went to 8500m; American Hahn pointed to his nose and Garcia realized nose was numb, tried oxygen for 1 minute but mask uncomfortable with goggles, so decided to go down and slept in ABC with "tiny hope" to go up again, but no "last expedition" to camp with Debrouwer and Destremau had no strength to go higher and so down to ABC from C3 as soon as sun came up. Now climb finished.