원정 개요

BC at normal site
C1 above big icefall, which skirted to right
C2 above small icefall
C3 at left side of NE Ridge
C4 on NE Ridge.

After C5 established 29th April, down for rest at ABC. 7th May attack started from ABC by Mizukoshi and Sekiya with 2 Sherpas and slept C3 that night; not good weather on 8th May so stayed C3. 9th May to C5 and 10th May up in summit bid and reached 7955m (started 4:00 am and reached high point 10:30 am). Stromg wind and deep soft snow put end to this attack (soft snow very tiring). While ascending avalanche had hit Ang Phurba at 7900m and sent him down mountain: would have plunged 3000m down N Face if after 10m fall large rock had not broken his fall. He was able to resume ascent. 10th May attack party slept C5 that night and to ABC. 10th May Nakamura and Watanabe up to C4 for 2nd summit bid but 11th long period bad weather coming and supplies in ABC low, so Nakamura decided climb finished. Had planned for summit success by and May and now members morale not good enough for another attack plan, food and kerosene supplies not enough for still another long wait for better weather. "Route easy, weather bad."