원정 개요

C1 at North Col
High point at North Ridge.

Buick was terribly slow climber even at relatively low altitude. [Told on] 26th, from at least 9 people, to turn back. Body found by Brice on 28th to push him off trail - was wearing only ski clothes (no down) and ski boots. His actions and clothing made no sense - brought equipment for snow probes and snowholes when had been told in advance it's a rock route; sleeping bag good for the beach; very in experienced climber - "weird behaviour" like stories to others like falling into 4 crevasses when were only 4 on entire route and route fixed from North Col to glacier and from there onwards.


Jim Findley of US expedition led by David Hahn - 4 June 1998

Buick was "a determined man in all the wrong ways" and never changed his actions despite all advice from others on numerous occasions. Hahn: "he was extremely ignorant of the mountains and never could understand how they could kill him". Hahn was one of the last persons to talk to Buick. Hahn, et al: he thought everyone else was doing the climb much too expensively and elaborately and he had great disdain for guides. Was convinced that in life and climbing Everest, you learn as you go along, but he took 72 hours to descend from North Col to ABC while Hahn's client took 1-1/2 hours. Is it is possible that he wanted to die on Everest? Nothing else makes sense.