원정 개요

C1 at North Col.

1st summit party 3 members went to 8100m 16 May and left gear and 18 May reached C3 finally after 16th and 17th May's winds abated. 18 May were ordered down because Grigoriev at C2 feared they too tired for summit. 19 May Fedorov, Usaev, Tukhvatullin and Zaikin arrived C3 but 20th ordered down after acclimatization at 8300m and down to ABC 20 May.

21 May 8 members from ABC up and Radjapov reached C3, Sokolov, Grigoriev, Usaev, Fedorov and Baskakova to C2; Tukhvatullin and Zaikin to C1 only; Dokukin, Roman Mats and Balmagambetov stayed in stayed in ABC. 22 May Radjapov on top 5:00 pm Chinese time (14:45 NST), just before Arsentiev. When he went above 2nd Step at at 8700m and spent 15-20 minutes talking with them while going up with them; he told them they going too late but they said wife prepared for bivouac (and they were seen by Chinese liaison officer saw them on top after 6 pm) and Radjapov in C3 at 5:00 pm, very tired. 23rd and 24th also others on top.

25th 2 summiters started very early because were slow climbers and feared bad weather coming. Now climb finished because no more climbing members left to try (Boystov bad cough and unable to try).

23rd May summit party met Mrs Francys Arsentiev at 8600m in a bad condition from her having been to summit evening before and night bivouac and 2 members, Fedorov and Grigoriev stayed with her from hour trying to help her; this made them later on summit than other in their party.

All summiters used oxygen from C3 to top and some in C3.