원정 개요

BC at east side of mountain west-northwest of Tangnag on Shorang
C1 at plateau
C2 between north and east summit (very close to summit).

While Mrs Yamanoi and Inoue climbed via SE Ridge (normal route); Yasushi made first ascent of East Face, 1200m high face of 85 degrees steep rock in lower part and ice in upper part. Difficult rock and ice. Climbed during night because of falling rock and ice and reached summit at 2:00 am on 22nd April.

26 April moved from BC to Khare, north of Mera Peak and normal site for Mera BC. From there north to Hinku Glacier and then ENE to Khare Glacier, where slept at 5600m plateau of Khare Glacier night of 29th-30th two Yamanois tried to climb West Face of Pt 6623 (Peak 41?) and reached 6000m. Direct line was blue ice, very steep; tried different line but here was very loose rock so attempt abandoned. The peak they think is Peak 41 is ENE of Kusum Kanguru, NNE of Mera La, north of Naulekh (see attached photocopy of Shorong Hinku map). Some sources give its altitude as 6654m/21,830 ft.