원정 개요

C4 pitched by Chinese and given to Argentineans, but Argentineans didn't use it but went from C3 to top to C3. Left C3 from top at 6:00 am (Chinese time) on 1 May, on top 4:00 pm (reached plateau with Canadians but did not go as far as Canadians and in clouds could not see many peaks - maybe not to highest plateau first). Most difficult section was seracs from C1 to C2 and even that not very difficult.

2nd summit team Peterson, Centeno, Sieger and Ramos: Ramos gave up at 7100m (sick-flu) but other 3 to C3 and tried for top 5 May; reached Sieger to 7850m had started early alone and took wrong line and very tired in deep snow. Centeno to 7700m and Peterson to 7600m, both exasperated by depth of snow. No more time or climbers for another try for top.


Canadian summiter Loubert - 13 May 98

Argentineans did not summit, but stopped ascent before plateau and returned to C2 hours before Canadians.