원정 개요

C2 at plateau in middle of seracs
High point in rock band.

Moved tent at 6800m to 7200m on 2nd May, then down to ABC to rest and up to C1 6 May in 1st summit attempt. 7th wanted to go to 7200m but stayed at 6800m in OTT American's tent because had become windy and snowing. This was total change in weather from no wind to bad winds. 8th OTT's Zangrilli down but Romanians stayed another day and then they too down to ABC. Hoped for one more attempt and on 12th went to C1, to C2 on 13th and stayed 2 hours only and in evening up to 7200m 9:00 pm for night ascent. 2 Swiss already in their tent but Swiss left for someone else's tent after half hour. Romanians tried to get warm and had drinks. At 11:00 pm Zangrilli and Slovenian Tic came up from 6800m and into their 2-man tent, Zangrilli with frozen hands and Romanians tried to help him get hands warm; Tic tired and lay down. Romanians left at 4:00 am 14th May it was very cold and Lacatusu's rib hurt very much and both were very sleepy; at 6:00 am at 7500m decided to return to 7200m to sleep and eat and try for top later (in evening): weather in afternoon again bad with wind and snow and on 15th worst weather so far, so down to ABC in these bad conditions and climb now over because of tight schedule with Lacatusu planning to go to Xixabangma and yaks had been ordered for 14 May at ABC (Lacatusu did not actually go to Xixa with painful rib).