원정 개요

BC at Langshisa Glacier
C1 at Col east of Langshisa Karshaum and west of Dorje Lhakpa
C2 on ridge after 2 big seracs.

Took 2000m rope from KTM and 1000m more sent by agency on tourist helicopter; rope not so necessary for ascent but needed for descent on ice and dangerous without. Stayed on summit few seconds because electricity in air making hair stand on end. 7 Sherpas taken for training but not all to top because strong wind frightened them; to C1 and 1 kitchen boy carried loads to C1 (3 trekking agency people say).

Bros turned back above C1 because ran out of motivation with fiance at BC. Others were on top at 4:30 pm and returned to C2 at 7:15 pm.