원정 개요

BC at Lhotse Glacier west side, west of Island Peak
C1 same as Yugoslav C1 at small pass north of point 5700m
C2A at 6500m on SW Ridge (but very windy and tents destroyed)
C2B at 6200m near Yugoslav C2 on SW Ridge
C3 near serac near meeting of SW and SE Ridge.

Had permit for East Ridge before came to Kathmandu. In February took flight over area and decided too great danger of many seracs making constant passage through area below and also of avalanches. After arrival at BC sent 1 member and LO to Kathmandu and obtained permit for SE Ridge, same route as Yugoslavs. In early May 16 tried to put C4 at 7500m or 7600m, but wind prevented this (an in earlier days, also deep snow); so managed to dump supplies at 7300m. Decided on 14 May not to attempt C4 but go directly from C3 to Lhotse Shar. Very early May decided traverse not possible because:

(1) were late on mountain
(2) winds, which were factor in being late in their progress

Say Yugoslavs had come one month earlier and still only in C3. Also 3 traverses too difficult for relatively inexperienced French members.

1st attempt for summit 17th May from C3 by Flematti, Sharma and Pasang Sherpa; when reached SE Ridge 8200m found wind too strong and decided to fix rope only and down to BC.

On 18th Gramond went to deposit and then when little wind got to 8200m alone; then ridge dangerous and he did not want to continue solo and to C3.

19th evening Tedeschi, Esteve, Royer and Sange Sherpa to C3 and awoke at 10:00 pm and started up at 11:45 pm. At 7600m Esteve and Royer turned back because frostbite threatening then and now there were no fixed rope. Sange stopped ascent at 8250m because he was afraid of ridges dangers. Tedeschi continued to top alone and to C3 very tired (to BC on 21st).

On 22nd Mailly, Nima Norbu and Kikami Sherpa tried for top from C3; Kikami to 7400m (tired) and Mailly, Nima Norbu to 7600m (wind and cold). Climb finished: all members very tired and all camps empty of food and gas supplies.

8 May Esteve and Grammond (pilot and passenger respectively) flew from C3 (7000m) to near BC at about 5300m (NE of BC in parachute like a glider). 1st time from such altitude by this type of parachute.

Had obtained permit to climb East Ridge, but after aerial view of this ridge, team decided it was exposed to too much danger from avalanching and many seracs overhanging route they would have to follow. They sent a member and their liaison officer to Kathmandu to get permission for the Yugoslav's SE Ridge route. (They had also planned to make a traverse from Lhotse Shar to Lhotse's main summit via the unclimbed intermediate summit at the mountain, and traverse would be too difficult for the relatively inexperienced French members.) Between 6th and 13th May, team tried four times to pitch a C4 at 7500-7600m, but first deep snow and then winds prevented this. On the 14th they decided to go directly from C3 to the Lhotse Shar summit. Four attempts were made to reach this peak, but only one member of the third party succeeded because of strong winds, threatened frostbite and fear of the dangers on the ridge.