원정 개요

C1 at North Face
C2 east of Dutch Rib
C3 above area of many crevasses.

25th April at 7750m big accident with Um, but he saved lives by holding fixed rope and sacrificed own summit chance. 3 days to get Um down to ABC for his helicopter evacuation.

30 April now from BC to try another summit bid. C3 left 3 May 4:15 am by Han, 1 Sherpa and 3 Tamangs and reached top 1:16 pm by Han and Dawa Tamang: others on top 1:45 to 2:00 pm. Slept in C3 that night, arriving there about 5:30-6:00 pm. 4 May 6:00 pm back in BC. Chose eastern route that is long but safest: Dutch Rib was blue ice and French and Spanish routes hit by many avalanches, but weather generally was good.

25 April Um and 4 Sherpas and Han going to make C3 at 7800m when 50m below site 2 Sherpas fell: sirdar attached to fixed rope and looking for way to cross crevasse said impossible and came down from crevasse and took 2 steps back and slipped, pulled 2nd Sherpa down and Um's leg entwined in rope: Sherpas down 20m and okay but Um's right leg injured and he fell down 10-15m; his leg and ankle fractured (2 breaks). Han Ok - all night 3:40-11:30 pm Um was brought to reach C2: helicopter on 27th brought Um from 4500m plateau and brought to KTM and cared for at B & B Hospital. Were on route east of Dutch and French routes; more difficult technically but safer: Dutch route had dangerous seracs area and French route many snow and ice avalanches. Expedition now in BC but will make another bid for summit.