원정 개요

BC at normal sie - was first team to arrive
C1 at NE Col
C2 on NE Ridge
C3 on NE Ridge
High point at just over on North Face.

Took two weeks to put all loads to BC because 68 of 78 porters dropped back at Yakaska despite to $2000 spent on equipment for them (which sirdar said was lost under snow). Also had problem with sirdar who was also cook. At end of April made push for summit and from C3 tried for top without any C4 from a low C3 in a good place (Mauduit made camp same place). 29 April 3 members made C3: Nikos, Dimitrios and Babis. 1 May got up 1:00 am and 2:00 am started for top via fixed rope already placed by Juanito's member and Sherpas and Greek Sherpa. At about 7500m route traversed North Face and rope was buried by new snow, saw old rope 10m to left and traversed to it. Dimitrios and Babis did so without problem but Nikos fell some how, reason not known: Dimitrios looked down and saw Nikos rolling and bleeding on rocks and fell down North Face and disappeared - guess he fell 1500m, but this is guess. Dimitrios and Babis stopped ascent and tried to find Nikos but after 1 hour's search gave up and all down to BC same day.