원정 개요

Peter Taylor - 17 May

Leaving KTM 10:30 am tomorrow by truck to Trisuli Bazar where will sort loads, etc. Start marching day after 5 days to base camp site at 15,000 ft (4 days to Timure at 8-10,000 ft which is last village and from which turn east Langtang II and 1 day more to base camp). High camp (advance base) at 18,000 ft - 2 tents (4-man).

High-altitude porter Pasang Sherpa from Darjeeling, 1 cook Ang Tenji, Pasang Phutar III from Darjeeling and 2 porters who help establish high camp at 18,000 ft and return to base.

John Graham Rogers-Homan who goes along to base and looks after first aid. He is ex-RAF pilot officer; on his way back to Australia to be married where he was living in Sydney; is 27 years old, from London.

Another camp at 20,000 ft - 1 tent. Ascent to summit made from here.

"Attempt at summit in 1st week of June or not at all."

Leave Trisuli Bazar 19 May
arrive Timure 23 May
arrive base 24 Apr
arrive advance base 25 May

Arrive 20,000 ft by 1 June at least.

Had allowed 3 weeks for acclimatization and reconnaissance. Now because of customs difficulties in Calcutta, lost 2 weeks time, so no reconnaissance possible. Will pick one route, stick to it right or wrong: will be shortest route he can find which he thinks has fair chance of success.

Taking Nepal flag only.

Return by same route probably. Might possibly take look at Lirung but very much doubts weather will hold off and give time for this return (via Trisuli Bazar) betweem 14th and 20th to Kathmandu.

Liaison officer will go as far as base camp only.
No oxygen.
Sprained left ankle; had it still when arrived KTM.

"I'll do what I can to get to the top without risking my life."

Going up West Spur of Ghenge Liru and then turn north on saddle between low peak and main peak; in saddle will be advance base camp probably.

Sirdar with Swiss on both 1952 expeditions and Britain 1953, 1st ascent Chamlang (over 24,000 ft) in Everest area by Japanese 1962.


25 April 63

Peter Taylor, 42-year-old Brit living in Australia, near Adelaide (Orange, South Australia). Geophysicist for Pasadena geophysical exploration corporation).

All Nepali expedition: Taylor only European; others: Pasang Putar III of Darjeeling and other Sherpas from Khumbu area try Ghenge Liru (Langtang II) 21,590 ft and if successful Lirung peak 23,770 ft. Doesn't know their climbing history: picked them because of nearness for most.

Finish by end of May; has climbed in Switzerland, French, Canada, USA, Argentina and New Zealand; unmarried.

Peak successfully climbed will go north from Kathmandu to Gosainkund towards Rasuwa to approach mountains from northwest: base camp on northwest side of Langtang II. Sounds as though lucky to get up Langtang II let alone Lirung.

Financing himself.


6 May 63 says:

"Langtang range has numerous peaks 20,000-23,000 ft highest being Langtang Lirung 23,760 ft which was several times unsuccessfully attempted by Swiss, German, British and Japanese teams. One of the Japanese teams lost several lives including its leaders 2 years ago attempting Langtang Lirung which is considered to be the toughest mountains in Nepalese Himalayas.


Letter from Peter Taylor - May 1963

Your news about the American Everest Expedition success reached us just as I was preparing to come down from C1. I hope these frostbite cases are not too bad.

We will back in KTM about of the 7th. The return will be via Gosainkund. We are remaining here for a couple of days so that I can recuperate somewhat. I do not think there is much wrong with me, just tired out after the mad dash to Langtang II. If I do have medical attention, I'll get them to examine my head first. I made it to base under my own steam - but only just! My Sherpas have been passing around me ever since.

This will be the mailrunner's last trip. The whole affair much harder than expected. It is raining again - the monsoon has arrived!