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Tamura - 29 Nov 63

Kimura and Namba left for Calcutta via Patna today.

Hirose leaves same way on 2 Dec (Monday). Tamura Monday am sets out on trek of Solukhumbu area with one Sherpa; returns Kathmandu after about 1 month (late Dec or right after New Year's).


Tamura - 26 Nov

Peak 29's east side only route listed as possible - east route we took only way to conquer after comparing with west side. Recon "successful from point of view of recon."

Expedition reached Pokhara yesterday late afternoon and caught plane to KTM. Then leader leave KTM end Nov. Tamura and Hirose stay 10 more weeks longer.

All in good health. We want to send one big party to attack Peak 29 next autumn, the year of Olympics in Japan, but most consider finances and perhaps next year too soon to manage. Perhaps Tamura and Hirose come to guide. Need about 7-8 members to conquer this peak: double this year's 3 climbing members.

Samagaon people friendly this time; now realize are Nepalese and must obey Nepal govt's liaison officer and police.


Professor Shinoda - 3 Sept 63

Osaka University 1963 expedition approved sponsored by Ministry of Education so doing scientific work also. Will study medicinal plants and study areas which is boundary of Tibetan and Indian plants.

Peak 29 is between Himalchuli and Manaslu. Expedition goes to Trisuli Bazar by truck, north up Buri Gandaki, west to near Samagaon. Base south of Sama (as for south of Sama as possible because people there oppose invasion of god's homes on mountain tops).

After climb will go through Larkya Pass to Thonje on Marshyangdi River and investigate Darakhola (valley found by Japanese party in 1961) which goes east from Thonje - study icefall there.

(Leader Shinoda comes only to Kathmandu; expedition climbing leader is vice-leader) Shinoda stays Kathmandu till Saturday and to London and Japan.

Then to Pokhara end Nov on early Dec and fly to Kathmandu from Pokhara.

Expedition leaves KTM 15-20th Sept for climbing. Dr Tamura goes to Calcutta Friday via Patna and meet baggage and 3 other members.

All 4 who will be climbing are in Himalayas for first time. 10th Oct base camp established if able clear Calcutta customs on schedule and if people around Sama do not force change in route.

Peak 29 never climbed before. Japanese 1961 expedition 1st attempt. Name from Indian survey (Manaslu 28; Himalchuli 30). Local name may be Thulanagi. Expedition financed by Osaka private companies.


Shinoda - 6 Sept 63

Expedition's Sherpas:
Sirdar - Ang Temba
Cook - Ang Dawa III (was also on Shinoda's 1961 expedition)
High Altitude Porter - Mingma Tenji
High Altitude Porter - Phuri Sherpa

Liaison officer is Kishore Shumsher J B Rana (Field Marshal Rudra grandson)


Letter from Tamura Nov 17, 1963

We met our mailrunner at Thanje and receive your letter on the East Ridge of Peak 29. This height gained the attack from C4, settled at 6000m. We thought that we could find possible route to the summit of Peak 29. By the observation, so we discontinued our climbing; another reason that we discontinued was that all our food and equipment were spent out.

After staying "Sama" village about few days during which we succeeded to make a good friendship with the people who had been very unfriendly for us, our homeward trip began 7th Nov along the Marshyangdi river. We arrived at Thanje 11th Nov. We stayed here 5 days for the reconnaissance of west side of Peak 29 and today 17th Nov. We are leaving Thonje for Pokhara. We expect to the Pokhara 25th Nov.

Our mailrunner are ordered to go Kathmandu directly without dropping on Hospital and to stay Kathmandu because we will reach KTM almost same time when he arrive there.


Letter from Namba - Oct 26

We are keeping good condition. Also in Sama village are taken good situation. But we are feeling very sorry and broken our heart because we listened to some bad news of Italian expedition.

We make C3 on 5700m high already. Mr Hirose is keeping the best condition in usually. Also Mr Nimura, Dr Tamura and all Sherpas. Staying in BC, Dr Namba and Mr. Rana are reporting in daily.

In Peak 29 with avalanches some mystery is full. But under the sunlight its shape is lovely and beautiful. In midnight Orion are moving over the snow mountains of Peak 29. We are not remembered to the troubles at Buri Gandaki at all.

We are climbing very smooth. Also weather is cleared up but sometime cloud.