원정 개요

Akira Ban - 23 Aug 1978

Italians in 1963 autumn (Langtang expedition) were mistaken about their having climbed Kyungka. They were on other peaks and did make 2nd ascent of Shalbachum (1st ascent was by Japanese in about 1960).


Kyungka - 1st ascent claimed 20 Oct, probably were on another mountain
Shalbachum - 2nd ascent, 20 Oct


Lino Andreotti - 7 Nov 1963

Expedition returned this afternoon. Langtang impossible to climb at this time because of avalanche, great crevasses and glaciers, but exploration successful and climbing other peaks also success. No incidents except fatal accident. Rossi body on glacier has been moved below fatal spot; had to leave there because of continous big avalanches. Place where 2nd camp was destroyed by avalanche. Had put up C3, expected reach summit after 5-6 days more with 2 more camps. All surviving members good health. 3 members coming by Gosindkund will be in tomorrow: Rabbi, Risso and Rossa reservations to leave Nov 12.

No plans to return to Himalayas, but very charming.


27 Oct 1963

Body of Rossi recovered 200m below spot at which died. 1st and 2nd camps evacuated. Expedition preparing to begin long march back to KTM. Bad weather impeded climb of Langtang but expedition has probably arrived summit in some range which had not yet been climbed as memorial of 2 dead. Expedition hopes leave KTM 10th Nov.

20th Oct 2 groups:
1) Mellano 29 Andrea municipal employer
Rabbi 20 Dino
2) Rossa 29
Risso 27 Alberto bank bookkeeper

Climbed 2 virgin peaks of range of Lirung, about 7000 meters (one altimeter was in pocket of Rossi who died and Hanki in his pocket - other only calibrated up to 6000m).

3 camps on each peak no oxygen masks.

31 Oct base camp evacuated and expedition went to Langtang village. Today starting for Kathmandu; arrive 7-8 Nov and have reservations out of KTM Nov 12.


Griglie - 20 Oct 63

Everything going very well. Doctor had to go high to acclimatize; if he reached - he stayed 16th at 2nd camp with Rossi. Evening of 16th weather cloudy but very warm so left snow and night not cold so snow didn't harden. Avalanche fell so 17th 8am started down to base. Talking on radio to C1 and C1 people saw them with binoculars and saw them of all at beginning of fixed rope; believe piece of ice fell or small avalanche hit on head or slipped fell in loose snow - fell 15 meters. Immediately Rabbi and 2 Sherpas set out from 1st camp and others very soon afterwards. Rossi died instantly from skull fracture: Dr. Volante injured; tried get up and slid to Rabbi and lost conscious. Dangerous passage to base camp because of icefall; brought him to basecamp. During night 17-18 was in C1 and Griglie went to cheese factory where was advised to send for helicopter. 18th am brought Volante to base camp over terrible terrain in sleeping bag and arrive there afternoon 18th and spoke again about testing his limbs: left shoulder fracture and apparently internal fractures. Griglie spent night with him in tent (he was delirious). Next day 19th died 1 pm; Volante buried this am at base camp. Rossi in glacier and tomorrow members may go to body but this very dangerous. Evacuating camps.


Andreotti & Griglie - 17 Sept 63

1963 is centenary of Alpine Club of Italy; this expedition celebrating this founding 100 years ago in Turin.

More climbed in Himalayas before; all have climbed famous Alps.

Mellanano (famous climber) North Face of Matterhorn this August; last year North Face Eiger; he is very short - 1 meter 60 cm. Leader will do film for IT TV. Geologist and doctor will perhaps go above base camp but LaStampa not.


Griglie - 25 Sept 63

Lt. expedition mailrunner:
Pundri Sherpa
Bamandu
Other Sherpas
Sirdar Nemi Sherpa
HAP Aila Nodi
HAP Mingma Tsering
Cook Kale Man Bahadur
liaison - Krishna Bikram Rana
135 porters

Go to Trisuli Bazar and up Trisuli River (North Face in Tibet) and to South Face of Langtang - probably return same route.

2 Japanese expeditions have tried to climb it.


Risso Alberto - 13 Sept 63

Franceschetti Bortolo, geologist

10 members - other 8 arrive Monday 16 Sept
1 geologist
1 doctor
7 climbers
1 journalist
--
10 (Royal Hotel)

Baggage arrives KTM about 20th; expedition leaves KTM soon as customs cleared.