원정 개요

Miyaji leaving Tuesday to Patna if can get seat.


Miyaji and Ando - 30 Dec 63

Foreign Ministry did not call them in - went according to schedule to give brief report on expedition (detailed report will be sent from Japan). If Mt Nalakankar is 24,000 ft then is in Tibet, but Nalakankar is 21,895 feet according the French. Min saw a map in For Ministry yesterday which says Nalakankar is 6500 meters - map is corrected - is only problem of name of mountain - "so I cannot say Mt Nalakankar is in Tibet" say Ando. I think Nalakankar because we should believe map of For Min for other details see For Min - problem of China as well as Map so we cannot speak about it. For Min said nothing about climbing mountain without permission. This same range as Nalakankar.

Plan to leave Kathmandu tomorrow.


Khatri - 29 Dec 63

Asked them to give press statement regarding Nalakankar.

Nalakankar not 24,000 ft; according to old survey is 21,895 ft Nepal govt found during boundary determination. 24,000 figure unfortunately perpetuated by Sardul serious reprimand for talking about boundary demarcation and for climbing mountain without permission. Told Japanese should be charged fee for 2nd mountain but will waive that.


Miyaji and Ando - 26 Dec 63

Climbed Takphu Himal 20,000 lesser peak of massif (cannot find Nalakankar - but a mountain 24,000 ft which is in China) probably is Nalakankar - Nyamonyos is local name (only name known in area).

Takphu sub-peak 6000m climbed by Ando, Endo and Hashimoto and 2 Sherpas: Pasang Sherpa and Rinjing Sherpa (Solokhumbu) on Oct 18th noontime. First time climbed by man. 2 camps on mountain - base camp was 4500m, C1 at 5200m. C2 at 5600-5700m. Climbed from north side - mountain not on border.

Oct 5 establish 1st base camp for Nyamnoyal which is north of Takphu. Ryuji Miyagi 28 years old of Nagoya RR Co and Sherpa Ang Temba from Solo Khumbu were taken by 30 Tibetan villagers Oct 23rd - when had gone to find route to highest Takpu Himal peak; pitched tent near border on 23rd. Porung villagers came and surrounded them same night and took them to village. Villagers told by Chinese doubtful people appear, should be captured. One night in village and on 24th met 6 Chinese armed soldiers and taken to Taklakot - 3 days in Taklakot: released 27th am after friendly, kind treatment. Chinese had contacted Nepal checkpost and anyway Chinese not sure where border was. Ando learned of arrest when villagers came to tell. They reached rest of expedition at base Oct 31 (entered Nepal Oct 29). Had been told by villagers Nyamgpol in Tibetan territory. Climbed into 3 parties to survey borders exactly. Oct 10 expedition decided Nyamgpol in Tibet and would try Takphu Himal instead. Takpu snowcapped not very difficult to climb. Established base camp for it Oct 12.

Out Oct 31 Ando no longer at base; had gone below because had been decided to leave base Nov 3; actually base camp abandoned Nov 8.

No accidents.
Other 4 members: 2 went to Bombay from Nepalgunj Dec 24 - arrive Japanese end Jan (Tendo and Hashimoto).
2 crossing West Nepal to Pokhara - Onoda - Nepalgunj to Delhi Watanabe - may come to KTM.
Ando and Miyaji leave Kathmandu after 3-4 days meet 2 in Bombay.


From Nepal chkpost by wireless
22nd Oct, Munchu

About 33 Chinese mounted soldiers reported to have gone towards Nalakankar from Taklakot on or about Oct 18th having heard about Japanese expedition to Nalakankar.


12 Nov, Simikot

1 member Japanese Nalakankar Himal Expedition along with the Nepal liaison officer Manik Lal were arrested near the border at Kangje Village and take to Taklakot by the Chinese patrol on or about Oct 23 and released after some days. It is said that they have since joined other members of their party for continuing expedition. It is said they had lost their way and reached Kangje which is a border on Chinese side.


22 July 63 - Hokkaido University

Hisao Ando of Kyoto - leader
Expedition sponsored by Academic Alpine club of Hokkaido
3 Sherpas and 50 porters from Nepalgunj
Ando is official of Hokkaido Dev Bureau
He stays Kathmandu 10 days - then to Delhi and Bombay - begins expedition from Nepal going mid-August
Hopes to reach summit mid Oct, return Kathmandu end Nov - never in Himalayas before
6 men expedition to Nalakankar - none ever in Himalayas before
Mountain Nalakankar never attempted before


27/23/63

Hokkaido Expedition to Nalakankar

leader Hisao Ando, 30 years old -> Hokkaido Dev.
Ryuji Miyaji, 27 years old -> Nagoya Railway Co. Ltd
Teiichi Endo, 29 years old -> Onoda Cement Co. Ltd lives in Yokohama
Masato Hashimoto, 24 years old -> post graduate in medicine
Okitsugu Watanabe, 23 years old -> undergraduate in geology
Fumakira Onodo, 29 years old -> student at New Delhi University
(working on MA in politicala science) - from Kyoto


Hokkaido University Expedition

Nepalgunj - Sallyama - Jajarkot - Simikot = 1 month - thence to Nalakankar
Sherpas - 1. Ang Temba
2. Nima Tsering (Osaka City Univ 1961 expedition accident survivor)
3. Rinjing (Nepal)

Liaison Officer: Manik Lal Tuladhar (relative of Poorna Harsha Bajracharya)
Nepalgunj merchant handling messages: Krisha Gopal Tandon (his house is near Govt. House)

Ando left Kathmandu 27 July 63