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Chilean CAI Cho Oyu 1987

Cho Oyu · 1987 · 봄 (1) · Chile

원정 개요

BC at Kangchung
C1 at Messner's C1 south of Nangpa La
C2 at base of SW Ridge, east side of Gyabrag Glacier
C3 at base of icefall southwest of point 6446m
C4 on NW Face
C5 on NW Face.

Porters crossed Nangpa La, but members followed Messner route across Sentu-Gua Pass. 2 members who did not reach summit on 29th were in C4 on 30th April and 1 May up to C5, waited there 3 days for good weather but it did not come and all met in BC 5th May. Bad weather wind and snow. Essentially were on Tichy route. Descended same way as Messner: came down across Nangpa La. Left BC 7th May.

Had slight trouble with Chinese officials. 2 members at C2 that Chinese who had knives and took their trekking permits. Chinese came because Americans had camp on Tibet side; joined Chileans at C5, waited for them to find the way up yellow band.

  • 내부 원정 ID253
  • 원본 EXPIDCHOY87101
  • 대장Mauricio Purto
  • 루트 (Route)W Ridge-W Face (Tichy) from S
  • 최고 도달고도8188m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 6명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Mauricio Ramon Purto ArabChileLeader/Exp Doctor성공--
Alejandro IzquierdoChileClimber---
Rodrigo MujicaChileClimber---
Italo Carlo Valle BottariChileClimber성공--
Ang Phuri SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공--
Ang Rita SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공--

출처·참고문헌

Purto, Mauricio · 1987 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
Cho Oyu, 1987Purto, Mauricio A. & Watters, Robert · 1987 · 학술지·저널 (2) · HJ
· 1987 · 잡지 (3) · MM
· 1987 · 잡지 (3) · MM
Everest, La Ruta LogicaPurto, Mauricio · 1987 · 단행본 (1) ·
El Cho Oyu HabloPurto, Mauricio · 1987 · 단행본 (1) ·
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198821001/Asia-Nepal-Cho-Oyu · 1987 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/44/11/cho-oyu-1987/ · 1987 · 웹사이트 (5) ·