원정 개요

Kyoto - 22 May 64

Leave KTM after 1 week.
6 camps above base.

April 9 11:45 am Otaki accident. C5 called Otaki camp. 3 members started from Otaki camp 8:30 am including Otaki (Takeda and Kobayashi also), arrived final ridge border line between Nepal and Tibet about 11:30 am. Otaki 11:30 am getting tired and since ridge not so steep but long snowfield they take rest at 7750m. Takeda leader of party thought too late in day reach summit that day and considered returning to Otaki camp, but better explore route to summit. Takeda went 100m away to see; suddenly Otaki slipped, fell 2000m into Gyachung Kang glacier in Tibet. Very very steep where Otaki fell; nearly 2000m straight down, so unable climb down. Couldn't see body because of overhang. Kobayashi little below Otaki, who was resting. So why fell, cannot say.

All members well throughout except Otaki fatal accident.

Sherpas of Cho Oyu said German expedition coming after 3-4 days; met then 1 day below Namche.


Kikuchi - 19 June 64

Arrive KTM 5 pm with Machida. Left 8th morning, all members; these 2 came quickly to meet Otaki's brother and Mainichi man. Rest will come about 23rd with Thakur.

Otaki fell on Tibetan side and impossible recover because in Tibet; no one saw him fall.

11th morning Machida and Yasuhisa also reached summit. Most difficult: C4 to C6 very steep; around C5 avalanches also caused fear; avalanche actually went over tents sheltered under crevasse. 200m from summit very difficult rock climbing, so had to dump heavy oxygen cylinder which threatened throw him off balance.

Leaving KTM around end May
Brother of Otaki = Katsutoshi Otaki
Sugio Kano, vice chief of editor's dept, Shinaro Mainichi Press, Nagano

Arrive KTM today via Cal and New Delhi. Came to receive expedition which arrives KTM about May 26th according message received here about May 10th. Brother wants to take boots, sweater to mother and father of fiancee Miss Matsuya Kuba in Nagano City who knitted sweater about June 5-10. Brother also not climber but 1st time in Nepal. Body never found.

JJAC 1965

Gyachung Kang climbed twice by AJHE:
April 10, 1964 - Kato, Sakaizawa and Pasang Phutar III reached summit
April 11, 1964 - Machida and Yasuhisa reached summit


Thakur - 10 April (letter from Kohara)

Climbed peak 7922m on 10th April. 10 April members Kato and Sakaizawa and Sirdar started from final C6 7680m at 7 am after great difficulties especially stiff rock knife-ridge stood on summit at 11 am and returned to camp at 2 pm.

Many difficulties especially final camp to summit. Otaki fell down from knifed-ridge into Gyachung Glacier on 9 April, body lost.

Brother says fell on other side of ridge.
Breaking base camp April 25th.


Kohara - 16 Feb 64

Leave tomorrow afternoon by jeep and truck expedition with about 30 porters set out a foot for mountain via Namche. Arrive Namche March 4-5 and to basecamp 4 days more at about 4500m on Ngojumba Glacier. Kohara will go to Advance Base about 6000m (Advance Base=4th camp above Base); highest camp will be C6 or C7.

Liaison Officer is Prakash Chand Thakur's brother, Jay Chand Thakur
Radio base to other camps only.

Gyachung Kang tried
1951 British recon.
1960 Snowman expedition by Japanese recon (Fukuoka Univ)
1962 Sayre
(Wylie says no British expedition really to Gyachung Kang - first in area)

Sponsors as listed 13 Feb 63 dispatch
climbing only
10-12 Sherpas; to be settled when Mgr Kato arrives Feb 9

Expedition leaves for Namche on Feb 15 or 16. Hope reach summit May 10-15 and return Kathmandu end June.

Gyachung Kang recon by Fukuoka University in 1960, but not conquered.


Letter from Kohara

Climbed peak 7922 metres on 10th April. 10 April members Kato and Sakaizawa and sirdar started from final C6 at 7 am after great difficulties especially stiff rock knife ridge stood on summit at 11 am and returned to camp at 2 pm.


E-mail from Mahiro Tada (JAC) - Mar 18, 2004

Team had 19 bottles of oxygen (French-made) and used it for sleeping at times.