원정 개요

Endo & Okura

Pethangtse climbed by Yamanoi and Okura and 2 Sherpas Ang Dawa and Lhokpa Norbu May 16. Not so difficult to climb but that day very strong wind so stayed summit only long enough take photos. From highest camp 5700m to summit took 7 hours up. Different route from Hillary's west side: used south side which very steep and big crevasses midway up.

All 4 members arrived yesterday 4 pm. All well. Stay KTM about 1 week, then perhaps Yamanoi goes to Dharan. No expedition members had accident or illness. Some Sherpas and Liaison Officer got high altitude sickness, sirdar so badly that expedition asked telegram be sent from Namche for helicopter, but telegram never received in KTM.


Hirotoshi Fukuda - 6 July 64

Fukuda alone in Kathmandu; others left Namche yesterday so ETA Kathmandu about 20th.

Not able to reach Baruntse summit because very much snow, unstable final route and very dangerous cornices. Highest 7150m point expedition reached only 70m from summit but here stopped by only cornices and pinnacles above. May 9th reached highest point. Okura and Endo who climbed Pethangtse then May 11th began attack Pethangtse. 13th Fukuda left camp and learned of success May 16th from mailrunner.

Pethangtse also difficult though at first seemed easy. Here too much snow already lying on mountain and had to clear it away. At 6030m was great crevasse which was very difficult to cross - Yamanoi and Okura.

Fukuda has to return to Japan quickly to teach (teaches German literature). Leaves KTM June 9, RNAC to Calcutta, arrives in Tokyo sometime before 15th after few days business in Calcutta.

No members accidents or illnesses.


6 March 64

Pethangtse Himal, 22,800 ft, May 16 by
Takeo Yamanoi
Masami Okura
Ang Dawa III
Lhakpa Norbu

Baruntse attempted first but unsuccessful, then tried Pethangtse.

From liaison officer to Foreign Ministry.


Baruntse - 23,688 ft.

First successful ascent by party of Hillary 1954 expedition expedition. (High In the Thin Cold Air, p 225).

(see also Mt. Everest)


Application to HMG

Rikkio University (also St. Pauls University, same institution)
of Tokyo sponsor; financed by University and members.

Rikkio University Himalayan Expedition scientific explorer and research to Makalu I (8470m): topography, geological and atmospheric conditions of Barun glacier area: also enroute for Arun River and Jogbani Dhankuta to base study language, folklore, flora and fauna; from base camp at 4500m will attempt scale Baruntse (7184m).

5 members including leader:

Hirotoshi Fukuda, 36, assistant professor at Rikkio University
Takeo Yamanoi, 29, director of Rikkio Alpine Club (member of 1959 Himalchuli Exp).
Masami Okura, 23
Takeshi Kishino, 23
Taiji Endo, works in Hilton Hotel, Tokyo