원정 개요

Japanese Langtang Lirung, Spring 1964

Attempted Langtang Lirung
1st ascent Urkinmang (Buddha)
1st ascent Bhemdang Ri (which they named Morimoto Peak for 1961 leader)

Did not attempt - Kyungka
Gangchempo
Dorje Lhakpa


Akira Ban - 23 Aug 78

Tsunga peak = Langtang Ri about 7100m; Japanese 1973 autumn were on this peak, not on Langtang Lirung.

Italians 1963 and Japanese 1964 both mistaken about ascent of Kyungka; were not on Kyungka but on other peaks.

Bhemdang Ri 6750m climbed by Japanese 1964 on 10 May by 2 members and 1 Sherpa.

Italians climbed Shalbacham in 1963, not Kyungka, 2nd ascent. 1st ascent by Japanese in about 1960. Osaka City University Expedition did not climb Ganchempo or Dorje Lhakpa.

1964 Osaka City University made 1st ascent Urkinmang 6151m by Ban, Jokei, Kiyohara and Mingma Tsering on 20 May via South Face from Langshisa Glacier.

1961 expedition tried only Langtang Lirung.


Langtang Lirung leader Ban - 28 Aug 78

Climbed unnamed peak, not Kyungka Peak in 1964 and Morimoto Peak 6800m named after 1961 expedition leader who killed by big avalanche in Langtang Glacier. Ban also member.


Dan Taylor - 23 Nov 71
(Gangchempo leader)

Urkinmang (Buddha)

1964 Japanese admitted to Taylor in writing that they climbed Buddha in its 1st ascent instead of Gangchempo. Had intended to climb Gangchempo and thought they had.


Ban - 30 May 64

5 members to Calcutta tomorrow RNAC; Ban and Kiyohara leave June 2 of 3.

Kyungka Peak (unclimbed) 6979m climbed from Langtang or Tunga glacier very near Urkinmang. 2 porters: 1 to Urkinmang other to Kyungka; climbed before permission known. 10th May climbed by Kando, Sasaki and Sherpa Mingma Tsering from 6500m to summit; knife ridge very difficult because steep and like knife. From C3 6400m and took 15 hours to summit and return.

Italians last year said they climbed Kyungka, but Japanese think mistaken and instead Italians climbed Shalbachum 6700m.


Ban - 25 May 64

Langtang glacier many avalaches this year and decided must not attempt it in trying South Ridge route first because glacier very bad condition of big avalanches; C2 highest 5700m camp and reached 6000m highest point, reached by Ban, Sasaki and Nima and Nima Tsering I 23rd April. Abandoned South Ridge because very dangerous and very steep narrow ice ridge with no place to put on C3.

April 28th moved basecamp - Urkinmang Himal (same Langtang massif) next moved base camp northeast into Langtang or Tsang glacier, ancient route to Tibet on base at 4300m now established 29 April. In above base camp III, highest camp 5950m from base to C1 very easy over moraine C1 to C2 snow glacier and sometime icefall. C2 to C3 rock but not very difficult. C3 to summit 300m ice face in which out stays all the way very steep (60% steepest part): this part "very difficult." 5 hours to reach summit from C3 (7 am left) and 5 hours down to C3. Photos and lunch on summit for 1 hour; left Nepal and Japan and OCU Alpine Club flag.

No accidents.

Langtang probably cannot be climbed from Nepal side because only one route via glacier and this changes so might be lucky one day. Don't know whether OCU will try it again.

All will leave Kathmandu by plane, maybe 2 to Calcutta 30th rest leave 31st.


Chandramohan - 7 April 64

AP filed last night Langtang expedition establish base camp April 3rd.
April 12-13 having avalanches

Bhemdang Ri (Morimoto) 1st ascent:
10 May - Tetsuya Kondo
Soshiro Sasaki
Mingma Tsering

Urkinmang (Buddha) (S Face) 1st ascent:
20 May - Akira Ban
Kazuhisa Jokei
Tesuya Kiyohara
Mingma Tsering

Note: JAC reference gives ascent date as May 5, 1964 for Urkinmang and May 8, 1964 for Bhemdang Ri (which they called Kyungka).