원정 개요

Uyeo and Shimada - 11 Aug 64

14 Sept established base camp. 1st summit group Yoshino, Kimura and Ageta tried on Oct 13th reached Central Summit (7150m). 2nd group Oct 15th Higuchi, Uyeo, Karma Sherpa and Mingma Tsering Sherpa mounted a second attempted (7219m). Uyeo and Mingma Tsering reached the Main Summit; Higuchi and Karma turned back short of the North Summit (7200m).

Above C4 very steep icefall overhanging which Shimade and Ageta were 1st to ascend, but then Shimada got sick and not able to go to summit. Base to C3 many avalanches and above C4 icefall; highest C5 at 6400m; 600m fixed rope all together (icefall almost all of it).

Yohino and Kimura want to go to Tukuche. Dr. Higuchi and Uyeo will leave 1st; Higuchi to visit residence instruction in India and maybe Pakistan and Thailand and Philippines; Uyeo to see India maybe West Pakistan and Philippines and Taiwan. Shimida wants do recce of Himlung.

Japanese 1964 expedition from Kyoto University climbed Tent Peak from South Annapurna Glacier on Oct 23, 1964. Those who reached summit were Kiyoo Shimada and Maasaki Kimura.

(from report from Japan to Gunter Hauser - in letter from Hauser to JOM Roberts to May 28, 1966).

Annapurna South - Central Peak

1st ascent:
13 Oct - Hiromichi Yoshino
- Masaaki Kimura
- Yutaka Ageta
2nd ascent:
15 Oct - Shoichiro Uyeo
- Mingma Tsering Sherpa

Tent Peak route from South Annapurna Glacier
1st ascent:
23 Oct - Kiyoo Shimada
- Masaki Kimura