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Gaurishankar Expedition - 16 Nov 64

Other 5 members arrive Kathmandu this am.

22,000 ft highest point reached; another 400 ft would have been on ridge which would have been much more easier climbing. Had to use so much fixed rope that ended up with only 1 climbing rope.

Certainly climbable. Not reasonably practical to climb from Nepal side, but from Tibetan very reasonable proposition, but still difficult: would need only 4 camps, 4 good technical climbers and a couple good Sherpas.

Map shows ridge from summit in one clean cut ridge, but were 2 valleys between ridge wanted to be on and approach ridge.

Avalanche every 2 days on "our ridge." 20 miles from base at 8000 ft (35 minutes on border) to top C5 at 21,000 ft; would have put C6 on ridge, lines too far strung out.

Clough, Whillans, Hadlum and Girme Dorje reached highest point.

5000 ft fixed rope. Wasted 1 week going wrong way in approach march; 21 days in mists before saw the mountain.

5 leave KTM Wednesday or Thursday and reach England Dec 20th.


Burnell - 14 Nov 64

Burnell came on ahead to arrange transport; others left Thursday and they will reach Banepa Monday night or Tuesday am.

Burnell reached 21,000 ft at ice cave C5; carried up to ridge at 22,000 ft, but avalanches prevented establish camp there. Whillans, Clough and Hadlum and Girme Dorje up to 22,000 ft. Howell also reached maximum 21,000 ft. Gray only to C4 at 19,000 ft because terrible trouble breathing.

Very easy from Tibet; from Nepal couldn't get coolies to base camp; need bigger expedition.

Expedition to stay KTM about 3 days. Gray by boat from Bombay with equipment; others overland by Xmas.

Very dangerous, most dangerous place Whillans had been. Had 1 climbing rope left; used all rest for fixed rope. 7000 ft fixed rope altogether.