원정 개요

BC at 1/2 hour from foot of South Face
C1 at others C2 (on glacier, 1/2 hour before couloir leading to a ridge)
C2 on next glacier in cirque at base of col
Biv1 just below a subsidiary peak
Biv2 called "Tete de Butoir."

4 members climbed alpine-style from C2 in 2 days. Then heavy snowfall and avalanche danger and route from involved long traverse under heavily loaded snow slope, so 20th April down to C2 and 1 May to BC and climb ended. Hadn't enough fuel to wait much longer for snow conditions to be safe.

Aprin: C1 pitched 10th April but occupied only on 13th and again on 26th, when alpine-style attempt began. On 26th ran into technically hardest part on ridge and when ridge eased off, there was deep snow. Bivouacked that night at 6100m. 27th got to 6400m at noon and had to bivouac there. 28th down to C2.

Abandoned climb on 28th said Aprin, because daily storms with much fresh snow brought serious avalanche threat. Were running out of food and fuel and weather looked like getting bad again (it did).