원정 개요

Messner - 13 Feb 1986

Stammberger did not succeed [on Cho Oyu, Spring 64].


Fritz Stammberger - 31 August 1974

On 1964 Cho Oyu expedition, 2 days after base camp established, Stammberger and Aila Sherpa climbed a 6600m peak [Nupche Himal] nearby via its West Ridge and 2 days after that he and Georg Huber climbed Jasamba Ri [Jasamba Goth] (6730m) from its West Ridge. Cho Oyu climbed via northwest side.


Stammberger - 25 May 1964

15 April started climbing after acclimatization: Huber, Thurmayr, Stammberger, Phu Dorje, Lhapka Norbu, Aila plus porters first day.

C1 6300m established April 16th; 17th and 18th and 19th resting mostly.

C2 established on ridge 6450m April 20. Aila stayed in C1 because of pneumonia. Huber and Thurmayr very slow climbing. Lhakpa Norbu returned to C1 because altitude sickness.

C2B established April 21 at 6500m at icefall. Huber and Thurmayr very slow ascent.

C3 established April 22 6800m; icefall very difficult negotiate (little chimney climbing) with skis and rucksacks on backs; Thurmayr in panic, Phu Dorje nervous.

C4 April 23 entrance Cho Oyu arena 7200m.

April 24th - Resting.

April 25th - All 4 started climbing for summit 9 am. Huber and Thurmayr are slow team in deep snow. Stammberger, Phu Dorje went ahead at Huber's request. Terrain from C4 to summit "rather easy" even on rock band; less steep towards top. On foot all way from base: (Stammberger tried to up to C4 on skis but no good). Stammberger and Phu Dorje reached lower peak 50m below main peak at 4 pm and Phu Dorje stayed at this lesser Hillary Peak and Stammberger went on to main summit at 5 pm with skis on back. Weather cloudy base with almost no wind; descended on foot because after 20 minutes rest photograph and eating sausage and bread. Met 6:45 pm Huber and Thurmayr on rock band where they'd made bivouac at about 7500m so they could save day's progress and try to go to summit next day (had no sleeping bags and little food); soon as sun went down, got very cold and abandoned bivouac. All 4 came down (Phu Dorje ahead) to C4 and here Thurmayr showed first symtoms high altitude sickness - staggering.

April 26th - All slept all day. Huber had bad headache and Thurmayr began to have hallucinations. Water heater's gas almost finished because had expected be up only 8 days total.

April 27th - Preparations for another attempt, but Thurmayr stayed in tent in panic. Huber realized he was too weak make attempt and went into tent. Phu Dorje went down and water-heater gas finished and suffered - Thurmayr sickened.

April 28th - 3 persons tried to descend but Thurmayr too weak to stand (lost balance). Stammberger unable help him because he fought Stammberger. Huber seemed strong and looking after but never leaves tent. Stammberger left about 11 am, skied down from 7200m to icefall at 6400m in about 25 minutes. Reached base camp same day at midnight to report to Rott and company (and for next 3 days unable do anything because of exhaustion and bad weather, drank at C1).

April 29 - Rott had been quite sick and had reached base camp April 10 days after others. Rott had plan for 2 members and 2 Sherpas go up; others substituted different plan and he was not strong enough insist on his plan.

April 26th Rott fixed tent with food to Nangpa La where sirdar and 2 Sherpas could stay and watch C4 and peak. Aila very sick and sent home.

April 27th arrived Phu Dorje at base coming with message from Stammberger asking food and men to C4 for new attempt on summit and Rott sent April 28th Sherpas with food but they returned with Stammberger. Rott sent 61-year-old sirdar back on April 29th 1 am with 3 Sherpas.

April 28 - Japanese expedition arrived and Rott explained situation.

May 2 - Sirdar [Dawa Tenzing] reached C4 alone and spent one night May 2-3 and gave food and Huber seemed out of his mind and attacked sirdar. Sirdar reached base camp May 3 night.

May 2 - Liaison officer went to Thami and hired 6 Sherpas and borrowed equipment and food from Japanese base there and returned May 4 morning. Stammberger, Gschwendtner, sirdar, Phu Dorje and 4 more Sherpas from expedition and 6 Thami Sherpas left base and reached C2. Sirdar discouraged Thami Sherpas about their insurance so 5 Sherpas went back to base on May 5th and seven others continued up. 6 thus went to C2 and because time consumed by dispute and bad weather.

May 6 - Stammberger and 5 Sherpas to 200m below C4 where 2 Sherpas too tired and others reach C4 at 5 pm (Stammberger, sirdar, Phu Dorje and other Sherpa). Huber dead about 2 days and Thurmayr extremely critical condition in Phu Dorje's arms taking soup. Transported Thurmayr to 200m below camp of 2 Sherpas on a sled of skis. Bad snowstorm that night; Thurmayr ate but delerious.

May 7 - Storm continued and almost impossible leave tent but Phu Dorje made better sled and 11 am left and reached icefall 2 pm; 8 meter icefall very difficult with sled. About 3 pm almost over icefall but Thurmayr found to be dead; 6500m buried him in hole they made.

Stammberger returning Aspen after visiting relatives of dead members; leaving in about one week.

Cho Oyu can go by ski - only very expert skiers can do it.


Rott - 24 May 1964

Rott came quickly to Jiri. Others to come to Jiri Friday but have not arrived by this am. Rott arrived Kathmandu this am by RNAC helicopter.

Altitude sickness hit Huber and Thurmayr at C4 when rescuers reached them. Huber dead and then died at C4 7 May.

Stammberger and Phu Dorje: at top April 25th.

Thurmayr conscious when reached by Stammberger, etc; to them talked clearly. Huber dead 2 days. With Stammberger were Phu Dorje, sirdar and 1 Thami Sherpa. Sirdar had gone before on May 4 and found Huber delirious and boxing with sirdar.

C3 - 6700m
C4 - 7200m

Base 17,000 ft = 5200m
1 19,000 ft
2 21,000 ft
3 23,000 ft = 7000m
4 24,700 ft = 7700m

Peak 27,000 = 8153m