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All Japan Himalayan Expedition 1964 (Chiba)

Glacier Dome · 1964 · 가을 (3) · Japan

원정 개요

BC establishment 17th Sep 13,000 ft
18-24th Sept - exploration from South Annapurna Glacier
between Fluted peak and Tent peak)
C1 - 29th Sep 14,000 ft established in the West Annapurna Glacier
through the Gorge
C2 - 30th Sep 15,800 ft
C3 - 5th Oct 17,900 ft in the bottom of Glacier Dome Glacier
C4 - 9th Oct 19,000 ft on the Ice Building of Icefall
C5 - 14th Oct 20,400 ft just below the col of Glacier Dome and Fluted Peak

On 15th Oct two attack members Nishimura, Mitsuhiro with Dorje Sherpa started from C5 with equipments of bivouac.

They made bivouac on the col of Fluted Peak and Glacier Dome. We called it C6 at the height of 21,400 ft. On 16th Oct they started 6:00 am and scaled the peak of Glacier Dome at 11:45 am. The altitude meter shows the height of 23,450 ft on the top of the Glacier Dome.

Their physical conditions were quite well on and they returned to C5 of the same day with great satisfaction.

The summit is covered with thick snow and divided by several small peaks. They stayed at the highest of them for 1 hour and buried the memories and pictures of our two mountaineering companions who were dead in the mountain of Japan by accident and had longed to go to Mt. Glacier Dome with us under the snow of the summit.

These two late companions will stand and stay on the summit of Glacier Dome with great satisfaction and friendship to eternity.

  • 내부 원정 ID2517
  • 원본 EXPIDGLAC64301
  • 대장Sumio Shima
  • 루트 (Route)SW side (from col betw Fluted Peak & Glac Dome)
  • 최고 도달고도7069m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 8명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Sumio ShimaJapanLeader---
Teruaki ArisamaJapanClimber---
Shoichi IshikawaJapanClimber---
Mitsuhiro NishimuraJapanClimber성공--
Hiroshi SaseJapanClimber---
Yoshikatsu TakahashiJapanClimber---
Masami TakeuchiJapanClimber---
Dorje SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공--

출처·참고문헌

Yoshizawa, Ichiro · 1964 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
Glacier Dome, 1964Shima, Sumio · 1964 · 학술지·저널 (2) · JAC
Route maps and photos in English in Japanese section
Glacier Dome, 1964Shima, Sumio · 1964 · 학술지·저널 (2) · JAC
Includes route maps and photos in English
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12196546503/Asia-Nepal-Glacier-Dome-Annapurna-Group · 1964 · 웹사이트 (5) ·