원정 개요

Crawford - 18 Nov 64

Consistency Thamserku difficult snow and ice - only one rock pitch which was a difficulty too at about 20,000 ft.

C4 (20,700 ft) left 7:30 am and back from summit at 4 pm.

Last part of climb difficult; steady wind, strong enough make it unpleasant.

6 climbers - 4 summiters and Wilson and Mackay. From below C3 (19,000 ft) and Sahibs had to pack camps themselves; technically too difficult for Sherpas.

Remarkably similar climbing conditions to Andes: fluting, mushrooms, steepness. To Pokhara tomorrow and Delhi next day probably; back to work.

Bhattacharya also leaving expedition; will return to his University tomorrow.


19 Nov 64

All 3 - Crawford, Hearfield and Bhattacharya left for Benares today.

Crown Prince Birendra inspected Chaurikharka School Dec 6, 1964. Ambassadors Duff, de Malnache and Stebbins and 40 school children from last year's schools at Thangboche, Thami and Khumjung helped welcome him.

Head Lama of Thyangboche monastery blessed 2 foot bridges just completed over Dudh Kosi and Bhote Kosi at 10,000 ft (2000 ft below Namche) Dec 7, 1964.


By radio from Hillary via Mulgrew - 6 Nov 64

After Louise

Thamserku climbed Nov 4 after exceptionally severe climbing requiring 4 camps, 4000 ft fixed rope, 100 ft rope ladders. Wilson of New Zealand led the assault, but summit party of 4 was Farrell, Crawford, McKinnon and Stewart all ex-New Zealand. All party well and safe; articles and photographs follow; formerly of Manchester, England.


By radio from Mulgrew - 5 Nov 64

Top bits extremely difficult. Hoped very much get Sherpa to top but technically much too difficult. 2 to summit were best technical climbers and doubt any more will attempt summit.

Bridge programme below Namche going very well; temporary across river now and permanent one going well with suspension going across in couple weeks. 2 bridges will greatly shorten route to Namche; will go faster. School virtually finished.

Radio airstrip Karyolung Peak

I. 12 Sep - 31 Dec - Kathmandu-Khumjung via Giri and return same way:
Hillary, Wilson, Mackay, Crawford, Lt. Mulgrew, Doig.

II. 12 Sep - 31 Dec - Kathmandu-Khumjung via Junbesi and return same
way: Fisher, Dr Max Pearl, Farrel, Brian Hearfield, Dr Lahiri,
Dr Milledge, A.K. Bhattacharya.

III. 4 Oct - 31 Dec - Kathmandu-Khumjung via Giri and return via
Okhaladunga and Sun Kosi River: MacKinnon and Stewart.

IV. 12 Sep - 15 Oct - Kathmandu-Khumjung via Junbesi and return same
way: J.W.S Aitken.

V. 6 Nov - 31 Dec - Kathmandu-Khumjung via Giri and return same
way: Lady Louise Hillary, Mrs Anna Wilson, Mrs Jane Mulgrew,
Mrs Louis Pearl.


Thamserku - H & D

"Thamserku, a 21,000 ft mountain of fleeted snow rearing above Khumjung."

"Kangtega, Tawache, Thamserku and Ama Dablam - their names conjure up a vision of climbing so difficult that one is tempted to call it impossible. For surely even man must be stopped by these terrible ice-encrusted walls and airy buttresses?

McKinnon and Stewart climbers and also for physiological programme, then to look its possibilities in jet boating in Nepal through looking at Sun Kosi [jet of water which propels boat] and take photos of its rapids. For future expeditions; schools reaching saturation - rivers at best in monsoon when other trasport means worst in Nepal.

Main lift leave via porters - group members (Crawford carpenter, Mackay engine, Wilson deputy leader, Mulgrew, Hillary and Doig if here) fly to Jiri and trek to Junbesi and start job there. When main lift arrives 5-6 days later ready to finish job of school quickly. Then on to Chaurikharka, where set up base to concentrate on school and airstrip. Same then arrive up to arrange rest of programme climbing mid-Oct - mid-Nov: Wilson, Crawford, Farrell, McKinnon, Stewart, Mackay and Hearfield if he comes. Milledge may also do same climbing too.

Physiological party may end up Khumjung or other village around 13,000 ft; main work on Sherpas acclimatization and adjustment to altitude.

Field Ent salesmen big fund raisers for expedition - prizes this year for 15 salesman - would get air ticket and 1st of these may come to Kathmandu early Dec and met here by Hillary and fly then into new strip.

Bridges require type lever but longer spurs which means can have footings higher above river; wire ropes will suspend bridge; if this system works, Sherpas can in future do themselves.


19 Sept 64

Hope have test flight of new airstrip Nov 20. Crawford will come out then. Hillary will fly out 7-10 days later.