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Narikawa - 29 May 65

Murai high altitude tiredness.
3 members walking and 3 waiting Lukla 31st
Walking from Lukla yesterday

18th April accident: climbing above 7000m and fell. Yoshikawa was with him making route. Narikawa's rock hammer hit piton and small snow avalanche harder are foot and he fell into steep gully (150m fall) but was roped and rope stopped fall. Yoshikawa had to get help from C3 because unable get him out of gully alone. Yoshikawa went to C4 no one there, then went into gully and tied Narikawa and went to C3; met Murai between C3 and C4.

Murai (button thread company from Tokyo) got altitude sickness 30 April; at about 7000m when got sick.


Inokuchi - 29 May 65

Most difficult part of climb (when last attack had good weather and no trouble). C3 to C4 extremely steep and covered by new snow, so tried to traverse but that too very difficult. About 3200m fixed rope between base and C5; about 1/3 of this between C3 and C4.

Could have succeeded by this rotate via SW Ridge (which his few avalanches) if hadn't lost time, etc because of Narikawa accident. C5 was established at 7300m; one more reached at about 7800-7900m.

Kobayashi visited base when Narikawa was in C2.

Trying to go from C4 to C5 at about 7000m trying climb rock face and Narikawa slipped and fell about 50m - knocked senseless. Yoshikawa was with Narikawa and came to C4 for help and while was away unconscious Narikawa lost glove. From C4 to C2 took 10 days to bring Narikawa down because extremely steep alternately ice and rock and couldn't properly pitch tent. 1 member Murai who was helping bring him down because unable walk perhaps from shock. All members involved helping down most got slight frostbite of fingers. Narikawa bad frostbite both feet and both hands (about 28, unmarried). If accident hadn't happened could have reached summit. This main cause of failure. When Narikawa was in C2 he told others leave him, he's getting better and go climb mountain; they got to 8150m.


Liaison officer - 26 May (from Namche ?)

Lhotse Shar expedition unable reach summit because of bad weather. Left base for Kathmandu May 23rd. May 15th reached C5 with 2 members. Matsuura and Inokuchi and Sherpas Nawang and Phinjo reached 8150m from C5.


22 May 65 - message from Home

Hamano in Lukla - 3 members cannot walk. They are trying to get Swiss plane from them - have not yet left base camp rest arrive Lukla 27th and want plane. Will wait 28-31st May - 12 members.


Dated May 4 - received yesterday from liaison officer

C4 established at 7100m May 4. Will have to establish 2 more camps and leave base May 15 for return. Member who was injured - severe frostbite of both fingers and toes, a few others slight frostbite. Narikawa to go to Namche Bazar, unable to walk.

Weather bad - 2nd and 3rd strong blizzard.