원정 개요

Peter Cross - Nov 71

A Japanese expedition's to one of the Dhaulagiri's in 1965 made 1st ascent of Tukuche, according to PCV's (Peace Corps volunteers) attempting Tukuche in 1960's.


Sugita (leader)

All 8 leave KTM after 1 week arrive Tokyo 1st July; perhaps leave KTM in 2 parties. Arrived base camp May 15 and advance party carrying injured Sherpa left base May 18 and on Kathmandu June 1. 2nd party on Kathmandu 10th via South route via Dhorpatan to see route for next time. Main party of luggage left base May 22nd arrive ex-Pokhara yesterday evening by a longer route.

Only one route up Dhaulagiri II because very high icewall; along ridge on north side of Dhaulagiri from east to south this ridge very difficult: much snow and glacier wall at 5200m height very sharp ridge like knife-edge - expedition's C3, highest camp, at 5200m having crossed ridge. Accident May 10 to Sherpa stopped expedition's further advance (C7 planned to be highest). On May 10th only Sherpas making route towards C4 site on unscheduled climb; injured Sherpa not using crampon and this main reason his fall not far above C3.

Expedition stopped:

1) much delayed in searching base camp site 66 days because of much snow.
2) lost Sherpas: 2 already lost on approach march by avalanche and now
a 3rd from only 6 total, so sirdar asked stop and now have carry down
patient took 10 days bring him over glaciers down to base.

5400m highest point expedition reached on mountain; all members and all Sherpas reached C3, but at accident time leader at base.


Oki, Vice leader - 10 June 65

Oki and Osama arrived ex-Pokhara, rest maybe tomorrow.

5600m (Mul La on approach march) highest point by all members and all Sherpas [except for two killed in avalanche].

Were above C3 (C4 never made); above here steep snow face and accident to Sherpa who came to hospital; so stopped and all members and Sherpas helped bring down.

All members stay 4-5 days; mgr and transport chief stay 2 weeks and Oki also.


Sherpa - 2 June 65

Sherpa? Dorje present when accident occured.

Highest expedition got was 2 hours above C3 5000m, then 2nd accident occurred while making route above C3 to Sherpa about 15 days-2 weeks ago. Jhamang Tenzing fell and hurt back and ankle so manager and doctor brought him and 4 other Sherpas by RNAC ex-Pokhara yesterday; rest of expedition after 1 week; turned back because new very deep snow and too many accidents.


Message from leader (received yesterday)

Establish C1 6th
" C2 7th
probably 8th 3rd camp

Try attempt peak 25 May; return Kathmandu mid-June. Late May [for summit] because took so long getting base camp.

Both Sherpas bodies found April 10th according to Himalayan Society.


14 April 1965

Two Sherpas by the name of

Mingma Tenzing
Lhakpa Gelbu

have died by being caught in avalanche when they had gone out to scout towards their base camp. They were at a place 2 days from Sangda and 9-10 days away from their base camp according to the liaison officer for Dhaulagiri II.


Sangda - 8th April 65

Reached Dangarjung on the 8th of March. Delayed at Dangarjung by some festivals and heavy snowfall. Couldn't make any progress until the 29th and having started for Sangda on the 29th. They reached it on the 2nd of April.

Heavy snowfall has been preventing them from making any progress. Not as yet been able to reach base camp. Snow too deep for porters as well as yaks.

The expedition feels that because of the bad weather they will be unable to return on the assigned date.

Letter was written by the leader from Sangda. The mailrunner brought it yesterday around the late afternnon).


Letter from Hiroshi Sugita - May 18

On 10th May Jhamang Tenzing slipped by mistake, for not using the steel crampons in a glaciated traverse between C3 and C4 on the glacier of East Churen Khola and got fracture of his bones, waist and right leg. C3 (5200m) was established on a glacier inside of Chorten ridge.

Jhamang Tenzing was rescued by the members and some Sherpas and lifted down from C3 to the Base Camp in Mukutgaon.

They had to give up climbing for two reasons. One is that they were already (about 40 days) late in reaching the base camp due to heavy snowfall. The other reason is the human and sympathetic attitude that other members bore towards the injured leader.