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German Expedition - 6 Oct 65

Left base 3rd and reached Pokhara 9th and Kathmandu today, all 8 members. Hauser's frostbite: ends of toes still have no feeling but discoloration gave and expects full recovery. Plan stay Kathmandu abut one week. Perhaps Dr. goes to Simre to collect customs money and meet others Bombay.


27 May 65

Jimmy Roberts informed by Sherpa returned from delivering food loads to German expedition that coolies have been ordered for leaving new base camp June 4th.

New base camp is 3/4 day from old camp.

Message to Jeske dated 20th: reached C1 on 19th 4500m and site for C2 found already. Leave base for return June 5. Fly from Pokhara 12 June.


Gangapurna camps

Base camp - 3750m
Camp 1 - 4300m
Camp 2 - nearly 5000m
Camp 3 - 5700m
Camp 4 - 6200m
Camp 5 - 6800m


Letter from Guenter Hauser - 7 June 1965

Successfully climbed the Glacier Dome on the 29th of May 11 o'clock. The following five members and one Sherpa reached the summit: Dr. Klaus Ekkerlein, Ludwig Greisl, Erich Reismueller, Otto Seibold, Herbert Wuensche and Kippa Sherpa.

19th in an altitude of 4550m, C2 on the glacier in 5250m, C3 in 5700m, C4 in 6300m. As I have already written to you we run out of ice pitons and this was our big problem. For that reason the Glacier Dome became much more difficult as it really is. The icefall the Japanese did between 5500m and 5800m we could not manage without pitons; in 5700m we had to return. On the right-hand of the icefall we were looking for another route. We pitched C3 on the upper glacier below the summit. We climbed a very steep snow wall of about 60 degrees, reached a steep ridge on which we went up. At the end of the ridge we could cross between big ice towers to the broad summit ridge above the icefall. Here we were again on the Japanese route. The last trip to the summit was more difficult than one could imagine from downwards: there were steep snowslopes with permanent avalanche danger. But after 4 hours they were on the big platform of the summit. They had a very good sight specially to the eastern ridge which leads to Annapurna I. This was one of the main reasons we climbed Glacier Dome to explore a route to Annapurna I at least: unfortunately we had no time to go further. Some more camps wold be necessary, a good transport system and oxygen. They put the flags of Nepal and Germany and they took photographs alround and film too.

In the meantime we all are in the base camp. We shall leave it on the 5th of June when 40 porters arrive.


Letter from Guenter Hauser - 25 May 65

After the trouble with the Sherpas, we started again to pitch camps in the direction of Glacier Dome. But it was clear that the time was too limited to reach Annapurna I via Glacier Dome and East Ridge. Furthermore some of the members myself were handicapped by frostbitten feet; moreover 4 tents were lost and other broken and more camps than at Gangapurna would be required. So we decided to try our best at Glacier Dome in order to have a look at the East Ridge may be for a few expedition. Now we have 3 camps pitched (C1 = 4550m C2 = 5200m, C3=5700m) and one on the way to solve the main problem, a 300m high icefall. But we have not one single ice pitons left - we would would only need 5-10 and this fact may cause our return. But nevertheless, Glacier Dome is not important mountain and still Gangapurna was the real success. I made a bit survey with or Theodolite in order to improve the map at Southern. For this reason I climbed with Herman Kollensperger and Sherpa Phurba Kitar the Tent Peak yesterday. We pitched a high camp on 5400m and reached the summit over a very steep but beautiful ridge. Col Roberts gives its height - as far as I remember will nearly 6000m but an altimeter showd 5550m. The panorama is in my opinion one of the most beautiful in the world; all round there is one summit after the other end nicer than the other before. I hope the Nepalese Govt will not be to [upset].


Letter from BC - 11 May 65

We have climbed Gangapurna. After an ascent which was more difficult as expected we have reached the summit in two groups, the first at the 6th of May 2.35 pm, and the second at the 8th of May 10:20 am. It was possible in spite of the difficult route to get all 8 members and 3 Sherpas out of 8 to the summit.

The first group consisted:
1 Guenter Hauser
2. Ludwig Greisl
3. Hermann Kollensperger
4. Erich Reismueller
5. Ang Temba (Sardar)
6. Phudorje (Sherpa)

The second group:
1. Herbert Wuensche
2. Otto Seibold
3. Karl Heinz Ehlers
4. Dr. Klaus Ekkerlein
5. Pemba Norbu (Sherpa)

We had some difficulties as you partly know: we had to start later and then only with half of the equipment, one quarter arrived later and the last quarter after the ascent. Especially much snow this spring caused that we had to carry all the luggage from Hingu, one day's march before the base camp, to the base camp by 8 members, 8 Sherpas and 5 low altitude porters. The base camp is only 3750m high. This means that the south face of Gangapurna is very high and steep a bit dangerous by avalanches. We were searching for the securest route, of course. C1 we put on the top of a moraine because that was the only sure place, so it seemed to us. Height 4300m. Far below the Col between Gangapurna and Annapurna III in nearly 5000m we pitched C2. It stood on the foot of a big icefall. We found a complicated route through the icefall and above it a platform like a balcony in the South Face. Here we pitched C3 in 5700m. It was the best camp place since one could see the whole southern Annapurna range. The C3 was not yet occupied as new snowfall caused a avalanche beginning about 2000m above C1 at one of the mountains next to Machhapuchhare. It was in the morning of 21st of March. The pressure of the avalanche went through the 100m deep valley before the moraine and like an explosion a big tent flew at least 50m in the sky, crossed the top of the moraine and flew some hundred meters upon the eastern Annapurna Glacier. The Sherpas ahd one hour to go to meet it. Nobody was injured only some food was lost. From C3 we had to pass under the Col. A 400m high icewall was leading to the Col, this was the most difficult part. But it was also not easy to find the way under the col and a place for C4. The face below Annapurna III and Gangapurna was steep with large ice towers on the top. Only one place under a small icewall seemed to be sure for a camp. But in the night the strong high wind blew snow on the tents so that the members could not sleep since the snow covered the tents completely in the course of the night. The next day they could do nothing except fighting against the snow and so in the second night. But there was no better place.

The 400m high icewall to the Col was a big problem. We had to pitch fixed ropes in order to carry loads for C5 up and to be able to go back independent of weather. We worked 7 days at the icewall and each day we were thinking to get the Col. But every afternoon the weather became more or less bad, strong high wind or thunderstorm and sometimes ater many hours ascent up to the returning place of the day before the weather became terrible. On the eighth day we went earlier but this meant danger of frostbite. In fact I became frostbitten at the feet as I finished the last meters to the Col, but we had the Col now and the frostbite are not to dangerous. This was the 5th of March. The tents which were hanging since days in the icewall could be carried up and pitched. The icewall had about 55 degrees. At the 6th we left the C5 at 8 o'clock and climber over the east ridge of Gangapurna. It was technically not very difficult but it was hard to make the steps. Over a first summit we got to the main summit as it stated in the beginning. The weather became very worse, the snow was blown horizontally over the summit. In that situation our Sardar Ang Temba did an excellent work in leading us down. Both Sherpas were very good. Other days we as the first group went down and the second group came up and climbed the summit. In return each group watched the other in case of emergency.


Letter from Guenter Hauser - 29 April 1965

The second trip with Ang Temba and 50 porters have arrived and we have persuaded the porters to go just over the snow line which is about two hours before one reaches the base camp. With our 5 low altitude porters we carry the loads to the base camp.

In the meantime we have all Sherpas in the base camp carrying loads to C1. At the moment 6 members are on the way from C1. Yesterday C2 was pitched, tomorrow they prepare the way to C3. C2 is in 4900m height. The way to C3 is more difficult going up through a icefall sometimes steep.