원정 개요

BC near Shershon
C1 above major and minor icefalls where Chamlung Glacier meets Lower Barun
(base of North Face)
Biv in ice cave in crevasse.

Took 3 carries to C1 which was difficult, dangerous and hard to find. "Incredible icefall" at gate between Chamlang and Peak 4. Between BC and C1-C2 avalanche slopes with hanging glaciers above route in this area. All climbing of N Face to ridge done on 30th April in 12 hours to small crevasse bivouac which gave protection from wind (had not carried tent, for reducing weight). Now late in afternoon and exhausted and one day from summit. Planned to eat and rehydrate on 1st May and go to top on 2nd; on afternoon of 30th spent most time sleeping and didn't eat. 3 am 2nd began ascent but weather deteriorating and Deak's toes had started freezing; at 5:30 got to 6750m, turned back in bad storm, paused at ice cave, then on down to C1. 4th went back up but Deak soon realized he could not go on: fell twice from "depletion" of strength and turned back at about 5800m. 4 days at BC but Deak could barely walk from frostbitten toes. Still went up to C1 to recover gear with some hope of continuing climb with Hartshorne. Down to BC on 11th and left BC 13th.

Route made left of Scott 1985 route but essentially same.