원정 개요

Govekar - 25 Nov 65

12 Oct Sazonov and Dimitrov: 2nd time attempt on summit with Girme Dorje and Dakiya.

7 Oct Juvan, Humar, Girme Dorje and Walung Dorje Sherpa: 1st attempt from C4 reached 7535m minor summit 2 km along ridge southeast of main peak; minor peak very steep and high wind prevented reaching main peak.

So 2nd attempt traversed below minor summit and from C5 reached ridge at point well northwest of main peak, but still too far from main peak point on ridge 7600m. Sazonov received frostbite one finger causing amputation 1st joint from tip. Bivouacked all night at 7600m - wind 60-70 km/hr and -17 degrees at night. Weather defeated them.

18th Oct evacuation base camp and 21st from Ghunsa to Dharan arriving Dharan 2nd Nov.

Tried via West Face; very steep and impossible with so much snow, but less snow Ok; wants to try again. Next time 2 more good Sherpas (this time only 7 including cook and several were ailing).

Dimitrov had temporary frostbite both toes and fingers. Oxygen equipment froze.

Govekar returns to Biratnagar tomorrow and Yugoslavia soon via Calcutta. Sazanov is in Biratnagar; all others have gone to Yugoslavia. Govekar received extra funds today.

Ramtang Glacier: base camp site at 4900m

S. P. Rai = liaison officer


Girme Dorje - 11 Nov 65

Metod Humar and Dr. Andrej Zupancic came to Kathmandu; rest in Dharan waiting for money to be sent then as arranged by 2 who came to Kathmandu and went on to NDH.

2nd attempts made on Kangbachen: 1st reached main peak on same ridge above C4, turned back because 4 climbers didn't realize loads had been dumped for a C5. 5 days later 2nd attempt made from a C5 but got no further than col below peak where 2 members bivouacked 1 night (and got slight frostbite) while 2 Sherpas went down to C5. Much snow, cloud and strong wind; avalanche danger; leader decided to retreat.

No other mountain climbed. Leader got only to C3.


SP Rai (LO) - Oct 17

7460m, 13th Oct.

2 members and 3 Sherpas tried again, but because of bad weather and exhaustion got only to 7460m. The 2 members have frostbitten fingers.


Zupanac and Govekar - 8 Aug 65

Zupanac and Govekar leave KTM about Aug 5th for Biratnagar where meet others; from there expedition to Dharan.

Leave Dharan 12-14th August, 20 days march to base via Ghunsa (checkpost).

Recon party ahead to decide which faster: Ramtang or Kangchenjunga glacier for approach. Base at about 5000m on one of these glaciers.

8 Sherpas; Pasang Phutar, sirdar ex-Darjeeling

3 weeks for acclimatization and would like to climb in Oct if possible when weather apparently best. Clear base by Nov 15 at least.

Don't know how many will return to Kathmandu, but some at least will.

Emergency communication with Kathmandu through clid radio at checkpost of Ghunsa; mail in and out via Gogbani chd.

Dr. Bujevic their contact in Kathmandu.


Letter from J Roberts - 21 Dec 65

Despite their apparently good records in Europe, Girme had poor opinion of their abilities in the Himalaya.

When I asked him to compare them with Lute [Jerstad], Barry [Bishop], well he just laughed out right.

Sherpas led all the way on the 2nd attempt.

After climb of point 7535m Juvan and Humar got the hell out of it, down to the nearest village, saying they had "done their duty."

At base there was much flexing of muscle and talk of the summit. On the mountain keeness evaporated.