원정 개요

4 members Japanese Everest recon team
13 June 1969

Up Y. couloir - which did know - whole face 75 degrees 80 - branch at 8000m; starts 6500m in Western Cwm; will need 2 camps, can use tents on small terraces, all way up to summit and bivouac tents.

Some stone fall, so must be careful. Carrying loads? maybe summit new day now and all down and col.

Leave 16 or 17 June 2nd recce party 7-8 members arrive end Aug for further study and acclimatization.

Possible ski down 7000m to 6100m South Cwm but still big crevasse, must take off skies.

Everest climb expedition will use 30 Sherpas and 15-17 climbing members.

Arrived base camp on 14th at 5350m just below icefall; from 15th planned to survey route through icefall and on 16th succeeded to reach point 5700m. On 17th succeeded to carry loads to 5700m and establish camp, written on 18th by Aizawa; [note] reached KTM ex-Lukla 24 May, addressed to Matsuzawa of Japanese embassy.

Aizawa and Sugasawa reached base on 16th May.


MFA - 19 May 69
ex-Namche

Japanese expedition led Yoshihiro Fujita reached base C1 at 11:30 am. 1 member Toyozo Sugasawa taken ill and returned to Lobuche from Gorak Shep, accompanied by Fumi Aizawa. Katoyama tourist also reached base camp.


Uemura - 28 April 69

Arrived 24 April in KTM - reconnaissance for years pre-monsoon Japan Alpine Club Everest expedition. 4 members in reconnaissance:

Captain Y. Fujita
H. Aizawa
N. Uemura
T. Sugasawa

Was on Japan Himalayan expedition to Cho Oyu in 1965 (Meiji University expedition) and Uemura was summiter same expedition.

Will fly Lukla - don't know yet when; hope get permission tomorrow before monsoon; want to go to 6500m and examine South Face; from there to decide where possible route will be again reconnaissance in past - monsoon 10 members and then test equipment and make route on lower portion of South Face - may be same people, may not.


Fujita - 29 April 69

Will return from reconnaissance to KTM about June 10th; will send mailrunner to Uemura and Japanese embassy: every 10 days. Fujita will be members of 14-member expedition next spring.