원정 개요

Tyson - 11 July 69

2 weeks to Dolphu, last place on route and then week really started. 1 week up gorge of Langu Khola [Namlang Khola] to Ruka Khola (unexplored). Few local hunters know this gorge and they only know of it. Here all ladders used for crossing Langu 5 times; really great success (1 crossing had 2 30 spurs). Up Ruku Khola.

Next 3 weeks: attempts on 3 ridges on Kanjiroba (about 1 week each)
11-18 May
19-25 May
26-31 May

NW Ridge tried first. Stopped where it became very thin ice fluting and partly because thought saw better way on NE Ridge, which looks very gentle but problem is to get on it. To get to ridge, had to make long circuit "through unexplored country" while making way up this icefall that "we had our worst experience on this expedition." "We were on a rocky ridge when we saw an enormous snow avalanche coming down the NW Face into the basin to the north of us. For about 1 minute we were totally enveloped and hardly able to breathe; my rucksack and hat were carried away; I recovered my toothbrush 3 weeks later." This size of the 22 May avalanche totally unexpectable which was 100-150 ft across and it came down and then up again. First 2 attempts were really directed towards lesser of 2 peaks and then would have had to go along ridge to higher main peak.

3rd attempt carried on from same snowfield to SE Ridge. This the most important attempt - crossed great snowfield.

In last attempt after avalanche continued up to about 19,000 ft. More ice fluting and tremendously narrow ridge where no space for putting camp or even standing on it and found cliff 3000 ft high leading down to head of Jagdula Khola. C3 3000 ft lower than C2. Crossed glacier here and attempted SE Ridge leading directly to main summit, but now started getting daily snowfall in monsoon's effects and rotting of snow. So now hopeless to try with no frost at night. Withdrew to Langu Khola in beginning June.

Now in a way most exciting part: to get out of Langu, but river risen 3 feet. Still had all ladders and followed incredible river gorge eastwards. No tracks at all (at best hunter's path). Coolies came to party by path over rocks manageable only without packs. Took party 8 days continuous difficulty and danger especially from falling rocks and we made out last bridge with water very high (11 sect 5 each bridge and tree). This route never before followed by westerners. Another 15 days from Phijor to Pokhara; in Pokhara 10th July.

Dean gone directly to India Pokhara/Bhairawa. Brown coming with ponies baggage to Pokhara and arrive KTM another 4 days and separate departure ex-Nepal.

Langu 10,000 ft but had to cross 2 16,000 ft passes. All up and down.

Special tributes to Sherpas especially as expedition slightly not normal type logistically; excellent liaison officer.

We filled a big blank on the map and on one before has actively set foot on the mountain. Don't see mountain until halfway up Ruka Khola and yet highest mountain in Himalayas from Dhaulagiri to Saipal" (60 miles in each direction). "A most illusive mountain."

Try again: SE Ridge is the best ridge to attempt probably in autumn.


John Tyson, leader
age: 41
home: Rugby
prof: schoolmaster
married and 3 children
3rd in Kanjiroba Himal; 1st time in Nepal 1953 in Api exploration

Charles Clarke
(arrive ex-Patna probably 13th)
age: 25
home Caldy, Cheshire
profession - final year medical student at Guys Hospital, London
unmarried
leader of Cambridge Univ Himal Expedition

Simon Brown
age: 24
home: Goring by Sea, Sussex
prof: schoolmaster
unmarried
in Himalayas before in Kishtwar, Indian Kashmir, climbed in Yosemite and
explored in Greenland.

Peter Dean
age: 18
student waiting to go up to Trinity College Cambridge in Oct 1970;
will do years teaching in Mayo.
Home: London
unmarried

Liaison - Capt Dil Bahadur Karki, officer.


Barry Bishop - 2 April 69

Bishop joining climbing with Tyson going into unexplored approach to Kanjiroba which Japanese considered impossible.

Tyson in 1960 tried from south from Phoksumdo and got nowhere near base of mountain and next time south from Langu and again not successful in reaching mountain's base, so now from west further east to next drainage east and then south to mountain.

No base camp; small flexible; primarily an exploration with carrot of mountain. Confident he can get to base of the mountain, but getting onto mountain is the problem.

Leave Jumla 15-20 April (Twin others march in - 8-10 weeks getting in, exploring mountain possibilities and getting out to Pokhara (except Bishop).



Barry Bishop - 19 Feb 69

Kaniroba Main Peak not yet climbed successfully; will explore main peak approach from north.

April-July climbing and scientific research.

Tyson leader and 3 other Britons and Barry Bishop who doesn't know which part of expedition will actually be with. Doing geographical research in area and may combine forces with Tyson part of time.

Mt Everest Fdn and Royal Geographical Society
Climbers including Sir Patrick Dean's son Peter
Jim Brown
Dr. Clarke