원정 개요

Rene Collet - 2 Nov 79

Swiss 1969 Spring went up Brenva Face (North Face) to "Junction Peak" and thence to West Summit, not to Main Summit of Tukuche.

West summit about 6850m
East summit 6950m
Middle summit 6850m


Dr. Hartmann - 16 April 69

Leave KTM Thursday 17th, Pokhara Friday 18th. Arrive base camp 8 days later on Dambush Pass probably; will discuss on trail another approach to peak. Return to Pokhara after about 5 weeks.


Hirsbrunner - 26 March 69

Swiss ambassador says permit sent to expedition.

Expect to arrive KTM April 11. Small mountain expedition to climb Tukuche 6915m, behind Dhaulagiri

1) Leader Dr Georges Hartmann, Citizen Hospital, Basel, 40, single
2) Dr Alfred Hitz, physician, Burgdorf, 40, married, 3 children
3) Ruedi Homberger, photographer, Arosa, 29, married, 2 children
4) Alois Strickler, 44, single
5) A. P. Hirsbrunner, forest engineer - finished with UN, now on own in
KTM - home in Langnau, 39, married, no children
All Swiss citizens

Patron: Swiss Federation for Alpine Research, Zurich
Sonam Girmi, head Sherpa


Hartmann - 22 May 69

Stay 3-4 days in KTM, all in KTM
1st attempt on 10th May
2nd attempt on 14th, successful by Hirsbrunner and Homberger

Breitehorn - Hitz and Homberger to 6860m
False summit - 6700m
Basecamp southwest of Dambush Pass at 5100m.

Peak Tukuche 6925m, difficult mountain, 4 days continuous snow at time of base camp - 29 April. Almost 1 meter of snow.

Met 2 Sherpas in Pokhara, ex-Germans and came to KTM on same plane; looking for porters here. Left expedition 3-4 days ago and expedition still trying. Porters to be sent from KTM.


JOM Roberts - 24 March 69

George Hartmann, Basel, Leader (was in Nepal)

Arrive April 12
5 party including Hartmann and Hirsbrunner
Hirsbrunner of Trisuli watershed (forester)
Tukuche pre-monsoon, Dhaulagiri area
22,800 ft
Received permission


Letter from Hartmann - 5th May 1969

Leaving Pokhara on 19 April with 30 Tibetan porters, which we could never engage again. We reached on 28 April an altitude of 4400m in the Dambush Valley where our friends forced to carry their loads further, although they were told in Pokhara, that there would be snow at this altitude. With our own forces we established a provisional base camp at an altitude of 4700m below the Dambush Pass. There were surprised and fixed by never expected snowstorm lasting continuously for more than 90 hours.

On May 3rd we could finally leave our job walking through almost 1 meter of newly fallen snow to the Dambush Pass beginning to establish our final BC west of the pass at 5100m. Today all material will reach the Base Camp. All members and Sherpas are well and enjoy the new beautiful weather.


Letter from Hartmann - 13 May 69

We selve were more favoured as you will know after establishing our Base Camp we explored the road to Tukuche Peak from northwest. After establishing a Camp 1 at 6100m, 2 members (Strickler and Hartmann) and 1 Sherpa climbed to the top May 10th in one day through a fine and classical but quite difficult ice road in the North Face. The summit was reached at 13:30. It is one of the most beautiful peaks these members have climbed (after climbs in the Andes, Hindu Kush, etc.).

The same day 2 other members (A. Hitz and R. Homberger) climbed the so called "false summits" and then the so called "Breithorn" of the Tukuche massif.

Today R. Homberger and A. Hirsbrunner make a second approach to Tukuche Peak. Meanwhile we begin to clear BC.

Our liaison officer should have sent you the message our success by wireless station.