원정 개요

Uwe Kerner - 12 June 69

He hopes bring German Alpine Club expedition to Annapurna in 1971 to try either via north side Glacier Dome (where thinks weather would be better) or, if Nepal doesn't give permission for north, from South Annapurna Glacier, not West Annapurna Glacier thus avoiding dangerous area ice seracs below C3.

Wants 6-7 members and 12 Sherpas
Kerner, Greissl and Reismueller leave today, Reiter tomorrow
Winkler left last Monday, the 9th June
Mueller, Hanke, Obster and Schubert left yesterday to see Taj Mahal.


Ludwig Greissl - 5 June 69

Climbed Glacier Dome (Japanese 1964, Germans 1965) in 3 groups
1) 4 May - Dr. Winkler
2) 9 May - 6 members carrying loads Reismueller, Greissl, Mueller, Reiter,
Hanke and Kerner
3) 18 May - 1st ascent by ski by Greissl and Reismueller (both on skis)

Roc Noir climbed
1) 9 May - Winkler, Obster and Schubert
2) 18 May - Kerner and Mueller

Skied on Glacier Dome from C5 at 7070m to 7142m peak took 40 minutes only by ski, then by ski down to C3 mostly by ski (not over icefalls)

C1 - 5200m
C2 - 5900m
C3 - 6200m
C4 - 6500m
C5 - 7070m
C6 - 7250m

Plan: From C6 to [Annapurna I] summit in one day carrying small tents to sleep in on return in temporary C7; from C6 (just below summit Roc Noir) and back to C7 in 8 hours using oxygen last 1500 feet only as ridge very easy not deep snow: hard snow so could walk fast at same altitude.

On 9th May and 18th May reached only 100m beyond Roc Noir summit on ridge; on both days good weather.

9 May climbed Roc Noir and recognized ridge and turned back; on 9-10th night heavy wind started; Reismueller, Obster and Schubert in C6 stayed 3 days and then when wind stopped briefly and 3 went to C5; then all, except Hanke, Kerner, Mueller who were in C4, waited in C5 for wind to stop and waited until 18th May when wind stopped and "there was a hope" and on 18th Greissl and Reismueller climbed Glacier Dome; Schubert, Winkler, Reiter and Obster with 2 Sherpas Ang Temba and Ang Tharke went to C6 to sleep and [planned] to summit next day; Kerner and Mueller day before went to summit of Roc Noir to prepare route of fixed rope, so summit team could go more quickly; Kerner and Mueller to C5 on 17th. C4 had no heavy wind (heavy wind stopped at 6800m); on 18th Kerner and Mueller to summit Roc Noir to put in fixed rope from C6 to summit.

Again night 18-19th heavy and cold wind came up; 2 Sherpas, Winkler and Obster could easily in am go down through to C5: other 2 Germans being a little late couldn't [go down] and stayed at camp; on 20th all went down because now all had slight frostbite in feet (Schubert more severe and had to be carried from base 2 days to Jamerang); other 2 (Reiter and Mueller) could walk; Obster slightly better than these on turn; all reached base camp by themselves but there warm and suffered; so high time to leave high camps because of feet and to leave mountain because of monsoon; had reached base 2 April and returned 22nd May; so in high camps from 5th (when C1 established) to 22nd. If 2 days without wind we would have done "it." This route makes sense.

Not a single cloud, bright sun blue sky and we could do nothing but lie in tents.

2nd night of storm, about 12th May, 2 tents torn apart by wind destroyed and those inside had to move to other tent and all sit up perhaps some others will come again on this route but not Greissl or Reismueller.

Did not find difficulties expected: ridge going up and down and deep snow on north side but level, hard icy and could have done from C6 to east summit to C7 in 8-10 hours.

From Middle summit to Main summit couldn't see.

Very difficult icefall before Glacier Dome which had not been difficult in 1965; ice seracs falling were very dangerous and knew American expedition experience, so sent no Sherpas with reports through icefall while Germans climbing.

From C6 to Roc Noir summit very steep and therefore difficult.

Perhaps last 100m to East Summit difficult, but Middle Summit and route way between Middle and Main summit couldn't see.

17 May 69

29 April Baisak 17th Camp 4
establish Annapurna
21,500 ft

5 Baisakh 23 Camp 5
22,500 ft

5 Baisakh 26 Camp 6
24,760 ft

Liaison officer
message in letter 28th

Baisakh 10 May
Expect to establish Camp 7 (highest camp) in 2-3 days; now weather fine and members well.

3rd May - Greissl to German ambassador received 9 May 1969

5 days terrible weather which greatly hampered progress - 5 Sherpas still in C1 with Hanke.

Tomorrow will go up; have all material necessary for peak in C3 and C4 so we are very confident to reach our goal but weather doesn't cooperate.

We heard of terrible accident to Dhaulagiri expedition and sent our deep sympathy of our expedition. Since tragedy of Nanga Parbat in 1936 no such tragedy. Will make our way with doubled care.

Glaciers are quite dangerous this year because of very little winter snow. Quite for from dangerous zone; way up we can do partly without fixed ropes.

Other team spent snowy days 5000m in C3. Today 5 have moved to C4 6450m.

** Oxygen taken for use on Roc Noir in temporary C7.


Letter from Ludwig Greissl - May 23, 1969

Surely you wait since a long time for a new report from our expedition. To give this report was not possible because I did not send Sherpas from the higher camps down to the base camp through the glacier which becomes more and more dangerous. With walkie-talkie I gave only a message to our embassy, that Glacier Dome and Rock Noir were climbed by the expedition.

I am sure that Mr. Capellmann informed you about this.

Unfortunately I am not able to give you now good news. We did not get the hoped full success. A really terrible storm stopped our ascent only one day below the summit of Annapurna. This heavy storm was continous for more than one week. It tears some tents in our C5 (23,300ft) and C6 (24,000ft). The situation becomes critical after few days and this during a bright sun and a blue sky without any clouds.

First we tried on May 13th to come 4 Sahibs and 2 Sherpas to the summit. Second in a storm pause on May 19th with another group of 4 Sahibs and the same 2 Sherpas. But the storm-pause was too short, we must return, before our feets and hands were frozen.

Now I am very glad that all members, Sahibs and Sherpas, are healthy in the base camp again. It was bad luck for us one day before full success to be forced to return but on the other hand we must not come back with "empty hands." We were able to climb Glacier Dome (23,600ft) 3rd time in three groups (May 5th, 9th and 18th) and Roc Noir (24,800 ft) 1st time in two groups (May 9th and 18th). The last summit, the greatest success was failed.