원정 개요

Muira & Co - 1 Nov 69

Arrived KTM today: Yuichiro Miura, Yukihiko Kato, Eiichi Yamamoto glaciologist assistant professor Hokkaido University. All others to come by 5 Nov by plane.

Great possibility from South Col to Western Cwm to ski all distance, but some perhaps too steep and snow conditions unknown. Huge crevasse in Western Cwm: wants to go straight down from South Summit of Everest and by then by ordinary alpine skiing to South Col and from South Col to Western Cwm straight down with parachute as stabilizer (very small, special kind - first time ever tried by skier Miura used on Fuji and now improved parachute and tried now at foot of Geneva Spur - 9-10 ft diameter); also has emergency brake parachute 15 ft diameter.

Tried from bottom of Geneva spur into Western Cwm. Wants to try new route and avoid Lhotse Face, but go between Lhotse Face and SW Face of Everest.

Crevasse at bottom of spur and of Cwm is 10m deep, so must jump over.

Tried parachute 2-5 times 10 days ago; Miura went up to 7000m. Advance base at 6400m (didn't use oxygen).

Dr. checking friction coeffecient of snow. Glacier difficult - some crusty, some = very large flakes weakly connected together (causes avalanches sanctuaries).

Depth hoar some places crust is broken and in such places ski cannot be controlled there - crust in not so hard as first believed.

Oxygen will be reached when goes up to South Summit; below South Summit is blue ice couloir 8400m high and from here will try skiing by ordinary alpine skiing techniques; steep part straight down (Schuss technique) and then parachute.

Will have control center at 6700m at place where slope gentles in Western Cwm and then speed will be monitored and tell Miura by radio when should use stabilizer or breaking parachute.

Very beautiful place - fantastic views skiing.

Altitude of Everest an unknown experience for Miura; 7000m not so easy but endurable, 8500m doesn't know; highest 5400m so for him (maximum 2 years ago).

Miura goes to Japan to improve equipment especially oxygen system and radio control system; leaves soon as possible.

JAC team (Miyashita) to 7500m; achieved one week ago and still going up aiming at 8000m max; had found [SW Face] route.

Met Hillary, Dyhrenfurth and Bishop and discussed route with them.

Phu Dorje wanted to ski with Miura and expedition to succeed, so we must to succeed for him.

As 21 Sept 1969
1. arrive KTM 27 Sept
2.
3. in KTM
4. trekking to Khumbu
5. trekking to Khumbu
6. trekking to Khumbu
7. trekking to Khumbu
8. in KTM
9. arrive KTM 23 Sept
10. arrive KTM 23 Sept
11. arrive KTM Oct
12. arrive KTM Oct
13. in KTM
14. arrive KTM 23 Sept
15. arrive KTM 23 Sept
16.


Yukihiko Kato, Mgr Japanese ski expedition - 21 Sept 69

Miura arrives 27 Sept ex-NDH.

Arrive 23 Sept ex-NDH: members Masaru Tsuchida, Takashi Sasaki, Masaru Otaki and Toshiki Hiyama. These going to Lukla by UN plane on 26 and 28 Sept with Kato, Yamamoto, Seisei Ajisaka and cameraman - 4 flights and Girme Dorje.

Tomoi Saeki, Kazunari Yashisa, Kazuhiko Yamada and Hisashi Ishiguro on way to Khumbu by foot with all baggage; left KTM 16th afternoon.

12 arrive Nepal next month and stay in KTM - no a climber.
one still film cameraman not on list will arrive maybe end Sept.
President of Now JESE committee is Senator of Japan.

Takahashi opposed idea 2 Japanese Everest expeditions at same time, but JESE and JAC given HMG permission for pre-monsoon 1970 so no choice about it.

Japanese Everest Skiing Expedition (JESE)
C/O Science Museum
2-chome, Kitanomaru-park, Royal Park
Chiyoda, Tokyo


Letter to Nepal Ambassador Tokyo dated 27 Aug 69 re-reorganization of Japanese Everest Skiing Expedition says we have established the executive working committee with:
General Commander Mr. Shintaro Ishihara
General Mgr Mr. Taisuka Fujishima
Skiing Commander Mr. Yuichiro Muira

Mr. Akira Takabashi who was leader of JESE, will contribute to this expedition in future as one of the advisor-staff, signed by Fujishima and Takahashi.


YK Silwal, MFA - 21 Feb 69

Japanese Alpine club's Japan 1970 Everest expedition can be given permission only when rules published. No assurance even given; when rules are out, start processing all applications and Japanese ski-film expedition specifically instructed not attempt any peaks. Permission given because must begin filming now to be ready for Expo 1970.

10 coming Aug - Nov
20 coming Feb - Apr 70


Akira Takahashi - 27 June 69

25 members to Nepal next Feb - recon party (12 members) this Sept to Nov. maybe inch Takahashi - ski and climbing not together because dangerous in narrow Khumbu Icefall - if too many people together - JAC climbing expedition maybe 1971.

Permit for South Col only - not peak of Everest - for ski party.

intend ski on Lhotse Face skier - Skier member Mr Miura now going South American training on oxygen - now Defence Ministry develop new type oxygen equipment like 2 Coke bottles one below each shoulder in front - Dr. with expedition will check condition only Miura skiing from top to bottom 8000m on Lhotse Face (has trained in top in low pressure and room) to 7 in one time: party to find this out

Yuichiro Miura from Kamakura (city near Tokyo)
Takahashi arrived KTM yesterday, staying about 1 week - was leader 1962 AJHE expedition Leongpo Gang (Jugal Himal)