원정 개요

Sumiyoshi - 25 Nov 69

End of Oct to 2 Nov - 7 teams attempted summit in 10 days.

C6 at 6900m, so almost 1000m very steep ice face (very hard ice). Highest point reached was 7400m on 1st Nov. All 8 climbing members at C6 (no Sherpas there). Good weather and almost every day attacked in 2-member teams (same days 2 parties trying on same day).

Fixed rope necessary all way. No camping place to be found above C6. All 8 members reached 7350m. Declines to give names for highest point.

If had enough time would develop highest point. Took many days to fix rope and then jet stream causing snow collapsing endangering climbers and very severe cold (-34 degrees at night).

Leader may come next year with JAC on Everest.
All members return yesterday to KTM, all well.


Manadhar, Foreign Ministry - 30 Sept 69

Message from Osaka University, expedition says they established base camp 22 Sept and on 26th Sept starting up to C1. Those going up to C1 were members Senya Sumiyoshi, Yasuo Tamai, Hideo Misawa, Jiro Kuroda, Yoshihiko Koda, Yoshiki Tanaka, Hiroshi Watanabe.

BC 4000m
C1 4800m
C2 5400m
C3 6200m
C4 6800m
C5 7200m
C6 7400m

Left KTM 3 Sept by truck to Trisuli Bazaar.