원정 개요

BC at Kangchung (as far as yaks could go in deep snow)
C1 at Nangpa Glacier edge near "g" of Nangpa
C2 at Gyabrag Glacier moraine between "a" "g" Gyabrag
C3 (ABC) at upper part of Gyabrag Glacier near "c" of Glacier
C4 just east of point 6446m on ridge
C5 just below icefall
C6 above icefall
C7 above rock band south of point 7530m.

At high point stayed 2 nights because of wind and snow. On 2 May down to C5 and down to ABC site on 3rd. Found ABC stripped clean presumably by Chinese, so down to secret Chilean BC2 at 5700m. 4th May to USA C1 and now climb over because of loss of all supplies at USA ABC. An easy peak: hardest section was scree slope 35-degree to C4 but high mountain with winds and storms.


Watters - 13 May 1987

April 25, Watters 15 minutes behind other 3 headed to C4, heard shouting and waving arms below at ABC turned back and found there 2 Chinese officials who asked for climbing permit. Watters went for it (and told to other 3 to go on up); then was asked for trekking permit and as he got it out, Chinese saw passport and took it and both permit (also took Chilean documents but not passports).

Chinese wanted him to come down with them to Chinese army camp near Austrian's BC. Pretended to follow Chinese but actually suddenly went south and left Chinese. Other 3 kept on up: Baker, Grant and Swanson. When they came down, were not caught by Chinese (Baker very early in morning, other 2 in storm).

See AAJ (1988) for further details of confrontation with Chinese officials.