원정 개요

Ito & Yakushi - 20 Nov 69

All members now in KTM.

C5 6450m - most difficult climbing between C1 (4750m) and C2 (5300m). C3 at 5750m. Searching route up Kaphe Glacier west of Gurja Himal and then rock face at 5000m, 750m high (C3 at top). Fixed rope 1400m on rock face. Took one week up face; deep snow above C3 to near top, but not so difficult climbing.

Generously good weather. Left base camp 8 Nov. 4 members go to Namche. Yakushi leaves for Japan 10 Dec and Ito for Japan about 25 Nov.

Gurja a peak suitable for small (5-6 members) expedition. Very attractive for such expedition. This expedition really 6 climbers. Gurja very interesting skiing - nice runs above rock face and also neighbouring peaks. South Face of Gurja very difficult, but maybe very interesting: all rock climbing (maybe all way from base to summit fixed rope and hand tents). North Face very easy.

To Pokhara (15 Sept)
Shimioda, Sakai, 4 Sherpas

To Pokhara (16 Sept)
Ito. Liaison officer

To Pokhara (20 Sept)
Leader, 4 other members, 4 Sherpas

Sirdar: Tenzing Girme

RNAC (fax lists)
Sakai, Saeki and Inoue
Flew scheduled flight to Pokhara Sept 15. Charter cancelled no flight to Pokhara Sept 14. Shimoda, Yakushi and 2 Sherpas booked for 14th but flight cancelled.


Ito & Yakushi - 12 Sept 69

Leader leaves 14 Sept
Ito 15 Sept
others 16 Sept

Pokhara-Kusana-Beni-Dharbang-Gurja Khani. Base in upper stream of Ghustang Khola end of Sept. Approach peak from west-northwest. Summit attempts around Oct 25. Return same route.