원정 개요

Sato - 12 Nov 69 (ex-Lukla)

2 today - leader and Sato
8 more tomorrow including 4 journalists
2 Friday (5 & 7)

Could go up SW Face up central ice couloir to snow traverse onto South Ridge; traverse starts at 8000m.

In recon reached this 8000m point.

Recon was to experience rock climbing at high altitude
On last day, 2 members went to highest point reached by expedition
at 7970m:
31 Oct - Konishi and Uemura
1 Nov - Sato and Nakajima

Sato proceeded one more pitch to 8000m rock climbing for 1st time; not so steep but much trouble with oxygen equipment. Was 5:30 pm and suffered slight frostbite in toes. At 5:00 oxygen finished; at 5:30 also could find no good belaying point; another time if had ice pitons, Ok.

South Ridge some danger of rock falls - also space for camp. Sato reached beginning of snow traverse. Directissima from this point forbidding: some overhang and very smooth rock walls. If can make big station including oxygen hut at base thus rock buttress might be possible to do directissima, so expect will do traverse.