원정 개요

BC at normal site
C1 at normal site
C2 slightly higher than normal
High point on North Face.

During stay at BC, 4 big snow storms: 23 Nov very little snow there, but when left BC, about 7 feet snow on ground at BC. After arriving at BC, did some acclimatization climbing and then to C1. While pitching C2 tent, huge avalanche from NE Buttress took tent, but found it and pitched in safer place. 5-6 Dec carry loads and 7 Dec left C1 for summit bid, but Takahashi sick and all turned down from 5100m and to BC. 8 Dec start of heavy snowfall for 3 days bringing 2m snow at BC; stayed in BC for 6 days. 13 Dec all 3 members up to C1 in 7 hours in deep snow (3 hours normal time) and C1 tent almost covered in snow and saw much snow above and think C2 probably covered, so down to BC and climb now finished.