원정 개요

Miura and 4 today - more tomorrow. Main caravan leaves Namche today to KTM.

5th night spent on South Col camp - slept well 8 hours on oxygen. On 6th had breakfast of Japanese fish, seaweed, Indian left Ovaltine. Collected oxygen tanks and parachute, skis (filed edges very sharp) helmet. Had to file and check all equipments in tent because wind so strong. 1 hr doing check and filing. Left tent at 9:00 made stone within which placed mirror because mountain is a lady so peak she can see herself.

Also turned with his name signatures and names of fall members and 2 Sherpas, flags of Nepal and Japanese and Expo 1970.

At South Col:
Kato
Yasuhisa
Otaki
Miura
Ishiguro
Girme Dorje
Ang Pemba

Finished Cairn in 30 minutes - done without oxygen also without oxygen put on equipment climbed 250m higher above South Col because good snow and wanted to ski down to South Col. Did ski from 8150m to S Col in 30 seconds in 5 turns in normal alpine skiing, snow condition excellent.

Kato and Girme Dorje made starting spot below Geneva Spur, about 200m distance not altitude below South Col; came down by fixed rope since no snow and reached about 11:30 am.

Amma vice leader at control center in 6800m Western Cwm with 7-page check list, but telemeter checked hero helmet strap, oxygen took valve; took almost hour complete check list.

After check complete 30 seconds silent wait; also had reputation of wind and other condition favor from several camps with wind dying from 7900m altitude at 1:07 hours. Skiing slope correct length being checked now by scientists.

First skiing: started slightly 30m east because wind coming from South Face; waiting for no wind condition. At 1:07 began; 5 or 6 seconds about 160 km hour speed about 200m distance from start, opened parachute (drag chute - stabilizer found inadequate). Parachute cut speed half so at 60-80/km/hr; then reached narrow spot where was great air turbulence; about 30 secs after start, realized slope narrowed by rocks; both slopes and from South Face one wind and another friend from Lhotse and winds tangled and made whirling. In this wind he skied 1 minute with alternate no parachute drag and then some drag. So to check breaking by ski edge but almost no effect (this also in this one minute). At entrance of Geneva Spur side and slope avalanche 40 degree. After passing narrow area, ice became very wavey and shifted direction slightly towards Everest South Face and noticed maybe to control speed very difficult; also noticed fallen rocks scattered about. So hit small stone and fell over after having skied 2 minutes 5-10 secs. Lost control and started skidding downwards. Hit rock at 7200m; fell down 100m towards crevasse and after 100m right ski fell off and he hit huge rock which slowed speed and after another nearly 200m and nearly unconscious. Found had stopped at about 150m before crevasse. Crevasse at narrowest 10 meters, but last year 2-3m; so this year could not have jumped crevasse and planned stop at crevasse and fixed rope fixed there and members there to help stop him.

No pain when stopped, had padded life jacket and helmet. While skidding believed 99% would not survive. Believed had succeeded but lost life in process. To ski down from South Col is not just skiing but gamble with life; had skied almost all of expected 2:25. Could not get up: on ice and had only one ski; waved one ski pole to signal he's Ok. This his well-known fuj, and signal he's Ok. Slowly tried to bend over to remove left ski to used it to prevent more slipping. Meanwhile friends at crevasse and Mr Soga reached him after 20-30 minutes cutting steps with ice axe and made small space next to Miura while Miura getting off parachute which used as mattresses where Miura sat for nearly 45 minutes 1 hour while members fixed rope.

Six Sherpas killed with Japanese skiers 5 April 70:
Nima Norbu 42
Nima Dorji 25
Tsering Tarkey 50
Pasang 44
Kunga Norbu 33
Kami Tsering, porter 45


Miura - 5 March 70

20 member left yesterday for Lamosangu and waiting there now; 12 leave today for Lamosangu. All tomorrow am leave on foot; reach base about 28 March.

Miura agrees Dyhrenfurth may be correct about above South Col and only "50-50" chance above South Col down - above South Col strong wind, very steep and rock out cropping from South Col down. "Hard to say" about success because truth regarding high altitudes effect on decision making and control.

Special life jacket while skiing down protecting chest; 5 inches thick to protect very tough nylon chest.

Fiberglass helmet with earphones and microphone in oxygen mask. Talk to 3 stations (advance base camp and 2 stations in course) telling of winds direction and strength and snow conditions, his speed.

From South Col steepest nearly 40 degrees to be started after 6 sec at 180 Km/hr - 200m of this 40 degrees and so 7 seconds after start 200 km/hr.

Miura's fastest ever done 172 km/hr Italian CERVINIA (Mattenham glacier) 1964, so if Miura does 180 Km/hr will actually break world record.

After 5 sec start will try pull cord on 1 parachute to prevent self going over 180/km by 6 sec.

Red smoke will come from behind each ski boot making red trail to show progress (and weather fallen into crevasse).


Japanese Ski Expedition - 25 Feb 70

24 arrive today
8 already here in Nepal) (including 1 in Birgunj)
1 Ishihara arrive 28 some leave KTM 2 March most including Miura and Kato 3rd

Tadano and Miura to the ski: same day following each 10 Km in 3 minutes.

Japanese fiberglass ski and oxygen and 3 different parachutes (stabilizers of different size).

End of April to do skiing.


Kato of JSEE - 16 Feb 70

1 other member K. Yasuhisa arrived
Staying Shanker now; when others came on 23 Feb, move to house next to Japanese embassy
32 members to base - Shintaro Ishihara only to Kodari Road
23 Feb - 2 members, 2 journalists and Kato again arrive

27 members including Miura and Ishihara will take film of wedding. Leave KTM 3-5 March with 700 coolies from Kodari Road (baggage arrrive CCU part yesterday and here 26 or 27 Feb).

Expect reach base camp about 25-28 March with at least 3 days acclimatization at Thyangboche.

Maximum 2 months skiing and filming on Everest; if all goes well, 45 days sufficient.

2 skiers only Muira and Tadano for skiing down very small oxygen cylinders; same as used by US jet fighters pilots for emergency use if ejection necessary - skier will need 3 cylinders size of tall beer bottle.

Miura or Tadano will try reach 8500m and ski down as much as possible, to 6100m hopefully (6100m south C1 at top of icefall); on unbroken ski 8500m to South Col; rest at South Col; ski to 6800m of Lhotse Face; at least 1 day rest.

7 movie cameras 75m cinemascope. Not bringing computer, too costly and too heavy. Telemetering of speed to control center in Western Cwm at C3 (6700m).