원정 개요

Henry Day - 10 June 70

We had certain advantages: French [not?] acclimatized; tremendous psycho-advantage to make 2nd ascent. Had lot of time by coming earlier but when got to base area so much snow took till end April to get last load to base.

Used oxygen sleeping last night but C5 (about level of French highest camp) and next day to summit. Did in 3 hours what French took 8 hours to summit. From lower camps observers impressed with speed of climb although Day and Owens not aware moving fast. When turned out pockets, etc., I found I had taken 6 pairs mittens to the top. Fine weather, best bit on mountain: calm high up.

Sun 14 to NDH. Tues 16 RAF to Singapore and almost 1 week there and disperse to various units.


Niven - 7 June 70

Owens very badly shocked and bruised but apparently not broken; both he and Summerton (who was also with Owens in avalanche) all right now. All well and coming KTM 9th.

Between C3 and C4 tremoundous ice climbing, vertical ice slopes, most difficult part after route decision.

Base 14,800 ft
C1 17,400 ft
C2 19,600 ft
C3 22,000 ft
C4 23,400 ft
C5 24,300 ft
Top 26,545 ft


Shah, MFA - 19 May 19 70

Sitnep 19 May: C4 established on top of sickle glacier 24,000 ft on 16 May. If weather favourable should make summit attempt on 20 May. Plan for return being made maybe in Pokhara by 5 June.


Tim Taylor - 6 April 70

Sick about 3 days ago. Did carry to Mristi Khola and return camp on 24th April. Had bad sleeping night coughing and very fast breathing.

3 members and 3 Sherpas in Mristi Khola and in next few days with search for base approach; route nothing like so bad as made out by French. Straightforward path to Mristi Khola.

Jones advises not serious now but was very serious in Switzerland last Dec. and Dr Jones advises not over 10,000 ft in next year - hospital 14 days.


Niven - 11 May 11 70

6 Sherpas and 2 RNA officers; air drop of rations.

Rest of British members and Gorkhas expeditions arrive 16 March evening in Hercules; to be the transferred to smaller RAF aircraft and ferries to Pokhara couple days later.

8-9 day approach march to base camp by end March. 16-17,000 ft at Mristi Khola head. Route about same as 1950 French (20th aniv). French established 5 camps and Niven expects about same, but not may have changed greatly and entirely new route may be necessary. If 2 British expeditions reach summit same time may descend by each others route. 2nd and 3rd week May for summit assault. Like to put 2 summit pairs on top or even more.

Will use oxygen for sleeping but perhaps not while climbing.


Kent - 5 March 5 70

RAF Hercules C130 arrive KTM with all established team.
Maj Bruce Niven
Arrive 11th March
Bristol Freighter to shuttle KTM-PKR 18 & 19 March
Leave Pokhara 21 March with full team and 150 porters.