원정 개요

Dr. Hara - 20 June 70

Goto and Hashimoto in Biratnagar. Goto to KTM after 1 week, others not know; attending to baggage to Japan via CCU

Arrive today Kurazawa and Ito gone already; neither ever reached base camp.

Hasegawa
Ashiya
Ikuta
Yoshihara
Koshiyara
Asami
Ichikawa

We as Japanese are ashamed of Everest Expedition; weakest party ever to Everest; social structure of Japanese the cause.

Americans failed because bad weather. Everest and Makalu very good weather this year. Used 100 of 120 cylinders. Near top summiters supply exhausted and from 8300m up none left; spent 65 days to climbs Makalu. 20 days more than schedule and food, fuel and oxygen not enough.

SE Ridge very long and had very difficult place where black gendarme was more difficult then we expected; took 18 days to push way up this and move above it.

C5 - 7500m

Even if weather fine, Americans could not succeed because they said black gendarme rather easy; we got to black gendarme and tried and found it more difficult then Americans said; our members very strong and they had fighting spirit and good team work. Climbed black gendarme around it and half directly up it.

Another reason for a success, our Sherpas very good and a very strong.

Hara 22nd to NDH and arrive Japanese 24th. Expedition dispersing in KTM.

23 May weather bad; that last chance for expedition to succeed. Goto not going to climb Dhaulagiri I this fall.


Onoe - 16 June 70

All others come tomorrow, Onoe and Tani today.

21st May Goto and Kawaguchi night out; very strong wind and route very difficult rock and ice. On SE Ridge all the way.

Left camp 4:00 am and reached about 80-100 below summit; stopped for bivouac 6:30 pm (biv on snowfall little bit down); no tent, no sleeping bag.

22nd May - sunglasses of both broken during nights bivouac so 6:00 am started to return to C6 (no attempt to go up on 22nd). 6:30 pm arrived C6. Ozaki and Tanaka C6 came up to lead them down at 3:30 pm at 7900m.

23rd Ozaki and Tanaka left C6 2:30 am; reached summit 7:10 pm. No C7 because route too difficult to take loads there.

Goto and Kawaguchi fixed ropes on 19th and 20th and not intended be summiters; plan for others to come up to C6 but they ill and unable reach C6; also Tanaka and Ozaki didn't reach C6. 21st as planned so Goto and Kawaguchi attacked.

Summiters couldn't take photos because shutter frozen; stayed on summit 20 minutes; returned to C6 at 2:00 am 24th.

Kawaguchi little frostbite 2 fingers but already healed. All others in good health; no accidents, no serious illness.

All members thought not succeed because very late and route very difficult; before C6 established thought this, but "when they establish C6 then Ok, we succeed."

Most leave Nepal after 2-3 days; 2-3 to stay 1 week.


Shah, MFA - 2 June 70

23rd May Najima Tanaka and Yuichi Ozaki reached summit at 19:10 hrs from SE Ridge route. Celebrating success 28th May.

Leaving base 29th May if weather and coolies Ok; reach Dharan in 16 days.

On 18 May Goto and Yonosuke Kawaguchi established C6 at 14 hours at 7750m. Programme had been to put this camp at 8000m, but too difficult to put camp there so at 7750m.

Goto and Kawaguchi attempted 21 May to reach summit but unable and also unable to return to C6 and spent night out and on 22 May they tried again for summit but again unsuccessfully because of snowblindness.

23 May summiters left C6 at 02:00 hr - took 17 hours 10 minutes to reach summit; put flags of Japanese and Nepal on summit.


Makalu Expedition - 16 Feb 70

All members now here. Leave 20 Feb by air to Biratnagar on RNAC regular flight and trek from Dharan. Base 4700m 15 March. SE Ridge, the route once tried by Siri expedition 1954.

Difficulties expected 7000-8000m many difficult rock and ice gendarme including 250m high black gendarme at end of summit assault. April base and 6 camps; 8100-8200m highest camp.

Advance base begin April at 6500m (C3) with C4 just below gendarmes and C5 and C6 above them.

Return KTM end of May unless 2nd attempt on summit mid-May.


20 Feb 70

Goto and Ozaki already in Dharan arranging porters. Dr. Ito comes only in April (arrive KTM 6 April). 16 to Biratnagar today.


Japanese Makalu Expedition

Sponsor: Japanese Alpine Club
Firm: Tokai Section of JAC (office C/O Hara Hospital 3-17, Wakatake-cho Chikusa-ku, Nagoya)

Members
Director-General: Masao Kurazawa
born May 4 1904

Leader Yohei Ito
born Feb 5 1923
DM, D Med. Sc, Dir and Exec
Laboratory of Virology, Aichi Cancer Center