원정 개요

Junko Tabei

South Face route very difficult because many crevasses and hard ice wall; no one attempted before so we don't know route.

C2 to C3 - many crevasses and short icefall.
C4 to C5 - very steep blue ice face and mixed with unstable rock; this most
difficult part climbing wall.

Members climbed 18th May from C4 to C5; very tired and very late to reach C5 at 5:00 pm (left C4 11:00 am). 17th very heavy snow and took long time to repack loads to carry up). Felt sure would go to summit next day. "I think I must go to summit - one member [Miyazaki] had headache and very tired so not able to go to summit, but Hirakawa and I very strong and must go to summit. All members had worked hard to enable us to get so high and we had to succeed".

19th May not so difficult: very long snow field and strong wind and no oxygen, but not so difficult as 18th May. Not so tired on 19th but my steps very slow I thought on 19th May. One Sherpa (sirdar Tenzing Girmi), then Tabei, then Hirakawa finally other Sherpa Pasang Nima all way from C5 to summit.

About 3-5 meters from summit I took my husband's picture from my pocket and showed him summit; my husband is also climber (he plans to came to Dhaulagiri I in 1972).

Plan for leader and other member Sato to go to summit, but leader not well and weather not good, so plan abandoned.

I want to come again to Nepal on higher peak, 8000m peak - Everest even.


Ono - 6 June 70

Arrived today:
Hirakawa
Manita
Ono
Hiraro
Urushibara

Others hope came today or tomorrow's if seats available.
Ono went to C2 but not overnight, was in base.
Highest camp C5 on col.


Hirakawa

Felt she could stand on top because of team work of all members; didn't have any feeling, but she did her duty; not very tired.

19 May reached summit 2:45 pm, she and Tabei and 2 Sherpas on rope. From C4 6800m; left camp 8:15 am. A little difficult this day because several crevasses and steep slope of ice and snow with some rock. Most difficult route from C4 to C5 because of blue ice face which required fixed rope all way from 6100 to 6800m. 4 members and 4 Sherpas put in this fixed rope in 9 days. C5 site reached 16 May because bad weather prevented movement same days. Hirakawa did same this route making and this not so very difficult.

Japanese Alps in winter time more difficult than Annapurna III, she feels. Weather very changeable in winter in Japan and much snow this 1st attempt for summit by expedition. C5 site food and tent dumped by 2 Sherpas 18 May. 3 Sherpas and 3 members Tabei, Miyazaki and Hirakawa brought one more tent up and set up C5 where they all stayed. Spent nights 18 and 19 May in C5. Bad weather prevented 2nd summit attempt. 19th May 2 Sherpas to C4 and on 20th May all down from C5. 21st May 2 Sherpas up to C5 and brought down tents.

Left base camp 31st May bringing down equipment and waiting for coolies.

Yamazaki went to C2 mid-May, really well; all others well also. No accident, no other serious illness.


Miyazaki - 15 March 70

All baggage arrived 14th. Leave 20th in charters to Pokhara (this not fixed).

Leave Pokhara 21 or 22; up Modi Khola to base camp in 1 week at 3800m south of point 12,430 ft, then north on East Annapurna Glacier (U of Annapurna Glacier Gurung map).

C5 on ridge between Gangapurna and Annapurna III at about 6800m and another camp at 7300m on ridge.


Eika Miyazaki - 11 March 70

Also on Eiko Hirano
Reiko Sato
Hiroko Hirakawa

3 other members on 17 or 18 KTM and leave KTM 20th. Equipment are 12th 5000 kg.

2 members in 1st summit assault team; if conditions good 2nd and even 3rd team
southern route from east Annapurna Glacier. Base on this glacier 3800m. Approach peak from southern face. Very difficult: avalanche danger and very steep 450m high ice wall. "We try our best to succeed".

Summit attempt 10-15 May and departure from mountain 20 May.


Mrs Tabei - 7 March 70

2 members of Ladies Tokyo Climbing Club arrive today
Leader arrive March by Thai
Dr. and 2 members 16 March
Equipment arrive CCU today
10 days from today to Pokhara
9 Sherpas, 100-120 porters; 1 week to base
1st base camp 1 April 3800m
May 10 summit from south side (Modi Khola) from 6 camps.
Last camp 7200m
Summit 7577m
Leader - Miss Eiko Miyazaki
Nepal 3 years ago and climbed Kailash.
Snow View or Shanker Hotel