원정 개요

Iso - 17 May 70

Iso and Okabe arrive today; other 4 leave today from Auraghat and arrive KTM about 20-21st May [actually arrived KTM 19 May].

Inoue is now well and Iso can now eat but will want more attention in Japan.

Koje Chujjo (Itaya's full brother) to meet Iso and return Japanese about 20th together. This brother also climber but has not climbed in Himalayas; lives in Tokyo, father and mother live in Ichikawa.

Very steep ice slope. 23rd April tried reach summit, but at about 6000m slipped 150m to West Face - ice hard and very steep. Itaya lost footing and pulled other 2 am same rope and all fell 150m at 10:00 am. All 3 injured with Itaya alive and conscious, but badly squeezed by rope 6000m summit slip. C3 6150m on east side and slipped on west side so needed climb up to reach camp on other face.

23rd April 3 climbed 40 meters by 3 pm and stayed night there. Iso lost one crampon, Inoue lost his ice axe and also very tired and in shock. Spent night in ice cave without sleeping bad but had bivouac tent.

24th 7:00 started climb, reached 6095m Itaya again slipped (again tied to other 2, this time with 2 ropes) and his ropes came untied and Itaya fell 100m into crevasse and dead. Iso and Inoue very tired and could not go down to him; 3:00 pm he fell and other could not see him.

Iso and Inoue to C3 at 7:00 pm to tell others; weather bad so other party to search only on 30th.

2nd May summit reached 10:45 am. Left C3 at 5:00 am and used same route via north summit and returned to C3.


Noordyk - 4 May 1970

3 members on 23rd and 1 slipped and pulled all 3. Stayed in hole in snow for night and next morning tried to reach 3 but again all 3 fell, 1 rope caught on ice gendarme and 1 fell out of rope and disappeared; other 2 hurt (leader Iso 1 severe frostbite and other breastbone fracture). Will come via Trisuli next week. Had only 3 Sherpas and 7 members, so half expedition out of action and Dutch lent 5 Sherpas.


Shah of MFA - 7 April 70

Keio University expedition reached Jagat safely with 4 days more to reach base camp, according to message dated 2 April.


Iso, Keio Expedition

All 7 members now in KTM; Iso and 4 on today.

Leave KTM 25 March by truck to Trisuli Bazar and thence 2 weeks to base camp Chuling Khola about 3800m.

Not same route as British which was South Face; ours is east side with 40 meter icefall and steep snow slope requiring 800m fixed rope.

Summit by 10th May via 3 camps above base.


Inoue - 15 March

Keio University. 2 members Toyoabi Inoue, Kiyoyasu Shibata arrive 14 March
leader 16 - TG 311
+2 Yashiko Iso

Leave KTM 23-5 March by truck to Trisuli Bazaar.