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1987 American Himlung Expedition

Nemjung · 1987 · 봄 (1) · USA

원정 개요

Expeditions to Himlung prior to 1992 were probably climbing Nemjung.

Began actual climb on 18th and had series of bivouacs. On 18th climbed Ratna Icefall to 5200m where bivouacked; one tent crushed by avalanche that night and couloir avalanching constantly, but next day not so much avalanche and latter part of the day was ice climbing to 5600m where bivouacked on crest of W Spur of S Ridge (complete S Ridge not possible with so much snowfall). 20th fixed traverse back to main gully and slept at same bivouac. 21st climbed the W Spur to first hanging ice field and open bivouac at 5900m at point where joined S Ridge. Everyone had 60 lb pack on difficult climb. Very brittle ice climbing on 22nd by 2 members and down to 5600m that night. 23rd all to BC in bad weather and Rosso sick.

Swigert and Tenney could have gone on above 1st hanging glacier (there were 2) but others not able to descend alone on more than 20 300-ft rappels. Now weather had deteriorated and supplies in short supply - storm now broke. "It is beautiful line" up this South Ridge, which is very steep.

Climbed 6600 ft of mountain and most of it vertical rock and ice both; difficult rock climbing because it is featureless but good granite. Approach route should have been on east side of glacier, west side of South Ridge.

  • 내부 원정 ID248
  • 원본 EXPIDNEMJ87101
  • 대장Kevin Swigert
  • 루트 (Route)S Ridge on right-side of S Face
  • 최고 도달고도6100m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유악천후 (4)

참가자 4명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
R. Kevin SwigertUSALeader---
Kirk Douglas BachmanUSAClimber---
Robert RossoUSAClimber---
Stephen TenneyUSAClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Swigert, Kevin · 1987 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198821403/Asia-Nepal-Himlung-Himal-Attempt · 1987 · 웹사이트 (5) ·